Everything Old is New Again

The wine industry really is a microcosm for the capitalism of Adam Smith, when you think deeply enough about it.  Smith's view that competition drives quality is no more exemplified than in the history of Viognier.  This grape, which had come close to extinction in the 1960's due to the high cost of production, has experienced a rebirth largely due to the need of New World producers to try rarer varieties and techniques to set themselves apart from the Old World.  As a result, one of the oldest varietals of the Old World is now one of the world's most sought after and widely produced wines.

Viognier is a tricky grape to grow and has a short time for harvest which varies from place to place and year to year.  In addition, the vines produce a low yield which can be susceptible to a powdery mildew which could ruin the crop resulting in a costly bottle of wine.  This grape produces a wine which some consider to be the red wine lovers white wine.  Rich, silky, fragrant and dry.  Just don't expect it to age well in the bottle next to your best reds.  For the most part this wine is enjoyed young.

As with most of the top grape varieties, this grape's heritage is somewhat sketchy with many myths surrounding its origin.  University of California, Berkley, scientists have traced its DNA profile to a possible link to the Friesa of Piedmont with a side trip through the Nobbiolo.  In France Viognier is considered an ancient and nobel grape grown mostly in the Rhone valley and bottled as Condrieau.  The French also use Viognier and its low acidity to soften Syrahs.  Viognier in France is used in several red and white wine blends.

Californians and Australians have taken a particularly strong liking to this grape due to its love of warmer climates.  The longer growing seasons allow for a higher sugar content which results in a higher alcohol content but a drier wine low in acidity. Despite its preference for warmer climates many vineyards in cooler climates are also showing very good results.  A light contact with oak produces a wine rich and silky in texture, golden in colour and aromatic and perfumed in its fragrance.  The wines are strongly reminiscent of stoney fruit such as peaches, mangos, nectarines and pears with a touch of honey on the palette.  While a cheaper version may provide a pleasant experience, it is recommended you splurge on the more expensive wines for a complex and memorable experience.  This wine pairs nicely with rich seafood, sushi and mildly spicy foods.

So, I guess the question is, can Ontario's wineries produce a decent bottle of Viognier.  I am currently researching the labels that make one and, to tell the truth, having a hard time finding any stock in a nearby LCBO.  I will continue to hunt them down, along with a couple of examples of the other nations noted above, and we will put them to the taste buds of some of my friends to see how they match up.  I am looking forward to this one and may let someone else run the test so I can participate in the tasting.  I hope to have the results soon.