Beamsville Versus Burgundy Round 1

There is a new fad in the wine industry, a quirky little cousin of the organic movement known as "biodynamic" and every wine producing region in the world seems to be boasting a new biodynamic winery every year.  Ontario is no exception.  As you might have learned from reading my post about my visit to the Beamsville Bench a few weeks ago, I really enjoyed my visit to the Tawse Winery, a biodynamic producer.  I spoke of my admiration for their passion and dedication as well as the quality of the wines produced there. But, do I think the quality of the wines has anything to do with the idiosyncrasies of the biodynamic movement?

Jancis Robinson has written that she believes the biodynamic movement "just makes for better tasting wines".   If that is true, then certainly anyone would find a biodynamic wine better regardless of their experience with wine in general.  What I mean, of course, is that if two wines are served to a group of people, one biodynamic and one non, the biodynamic should be clearly favoured, should it not?

A couple of weeks ago I pitted two wines against each other in a tasting.  One of these wines was a biodynamic wine from Tawse Winery, a 2009 Sketches Chardonnay.  The second wine was a Burgundy sustainably produced Chablis,  2009 Domaine Louis Moreau Chablis 1er Cru Vaulignot.  The people tasting were the usual group of friends some with a greater wine appreciation than others, but none with any expertise claimed or imagined.  They certainly would not have a prejudice toward one form of farming over another.  No mention was made before the tasting of one of the wines being a biodynamic wine.

To my thinking, if a biodynamic wine is superior because of its method of farming it should be favoured by people who like wine regardless of experience or the wine simply does not live up to the marketing hype.  Furthermore, if the wine is not the clear winner and you maintain  that these methods result in the best examples of wines from any region, you must then concede that your region is not as suitable for wine making.  Or, you have to admit that there is far more involved in making wine than the position of the planets or the burying of a bovine head for a specified period of time during a specific phase of the moon.  And, let me nip in the bud this next argument, if only experts can tell the difference, you must concede that your methods hold no relevance to the average consumer and labelling is irrelevant.

So, who was the clear winner?  Eight people were asked to pick their favourite wine and what region they thought the wine came from.  Two people picked the Tawse as coming from Niagara and one person guessed the Chablis as coming from France.  As for preference, 3 people declared a preference for the biodynamic wine and 5 preferred the sustainably grown product.

Ok, this is not the most scientific test in the world, but I bet I could run the tasting a thousand times with different people and get the same statistically insignificant result.  There is no discernible difference in taste from biodynamic processes, in my opinion.  If the claims of superiority were true, I would have expected, even in this small sampling, to have seen some indication that people preferred the Tawse Chardonnay.  Almost everything about these two wines was the same: vintage, bottle size, price, amount of oak and soil type.  The only clear difference, aside from the influence of the wine maker, was the approach toward vineyard management.  This clearly was not enough to overcome the winemaker's expert touch.

Does this mean I no longer love Tawse?  No.  I think they make great wine and I think they will get better at it; I just don't think that their biodynamic approach will have anything to do with it.  While we were tasting wine at Tawse we were told that, during harvesting, workers were instructed to discard any bunches of grapes that had any unripened fruit.  Not just the unripened berries, but the whole bunch was to be discarded.  This kind of attention to quality is what will make or break Tawse and, regardless of whether or not the "moon is in the seventh house, or jupiter is aligned with mars".

I plan to write more about organic and sustainable farming in future posts, in the mean time you can read this blog to give you an idea of the criticisms of biodynamic farming.

Three Posties Walk Into A Tasting Bar...

...again and again and again and again.  And we all stayed sobre, for the most part.

On Thursday I and two friends (Iain and Sarah) took a road trip to the Beamsville and Twenty Mile Benches of the Niagara Region to check out some of the wine Ontario has to offer that is not readily available in LCBO stores.  I had identified 6 wineries of interest that I was hoping to have the time to visit and knew that some would still be on reduced winter hours, so I was sure to be flexible about the tour.  Having never been on a Niagara tour I had no idea what to expect but, it was a beautiful day, sunny and mild, and so we embarked on our adventure in a positive mood.

We left Markham shortly after 10 am and arrived at our first winery, Rosewood Estates, shortly before 11:30 am.   Rosewood is a fairly new winery having opened to the public in 2008 but, they are already attracting attention for their wines and for their unique offerings in honey products including a very nice Mead.  We were welcomed warmly by the staff and offered a 3 flight tasting of our choice of wines.  We chose to sample their 2008 Riesling, 2008 Pinot Noir and a 2007 Mead Blanc.  Both the Riesling and Pinot Noir were typical of what the Beamsville Bench has to offer with the Riesling being crisp, tart and very approachable.  It would be nice as an aperitif or with shrimp or light seafood.  The Pinot Noir was quite fruit forward with a balance of acidity and sweetness and the oak was noticeable but not overpowering the berry fruits typical of the grape.  I had never tasted Mead before and was pleasantly surprised at its clean taste and surprising acidity.  I was expecting something much more sugar loaded and richer and this was a wine I would gladly drink with sharp aged cheddar but also slightly spicy asian food. I picked up a Pinot Noir, Reserve Chardonnay and a Sussreserve Riesling all from 2009.  Tastings at Rosewood were $3 per person which was waved as we purchased some of their product.

Our next stop on the list was a winery that I had read much about, that has been garnering rave reviews for their wines, and which Beppi Crosariol had recommended as one of his top 8 wineries to visit in the region.  Now, we have all been told that if we have nothing good to say we should say nothing at all.  Well, I have something good to say so I am also going to have something not so good to say about this winery later.  Hidden Bench is quite possibly one of the best wineries in Ontario right now.  Fairly new, they are currently targeting the premium market and this is reflected in their prices which range between $24-$55, all well worth the money (pricing is done annually and will change from vintage to vintage to reflect the quality of each year) and the fact that they often sell out of their wines shortly after the release dates (one in spring, one in fall).  Many of their offerings are excellent choices for cellaring and have a balance and finish that just seems more refined on the palate than their neighbours at Rosewood.  The Chardonnay is especially nice with lemon and apple flavours, acidity and sweetness, and oak all in fine balance.  But before you enjoy the wonderful wines at Hidden Bench, you will first be struck by the beauty of the property and the wonderful patio with a magnificent stone fireplace built into the outside wall of the building.  The tasting room is equally impressive inside this renovated 150 year old farm house.  For $10 we tasted 3 of their wines, a Riesling, Chardonnay and red Meritage that was a blend of Merlot/Cabernet Franc/Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec.  I purchased two of their wines, a 2008 Riesling and 2009 Pinot Noir.  You could not ask for better examples of what the Beamsville Bench is capable of in wine production.

The third stop on our trip was also recommended by Beppi Crosariol and is the biodynamic winery of Tawse.  All three of us fell in love with this winery the moment we drove through their impressive gates and up the winding drive to their state-of-the-art, gravity fed, wine making facility.  This sustainably focused winery has been named Canadian Winery of the Year for 2010 and 2011 and it shows.  We arrived without an appointment and were met by, perhaps, the friendliest person you will ever meet: Rheal.  Despite the fact we had not booked a tour and despite the fact that there was no one available to give us one, Rheal took it upon himself to give us a quick look into one of the barrel caves dug into the side of the hill the winery is built on.  Seeing all those barrels stacked up and experiencing the smell of red wine and oak was intoxicating even before the tasting began.  Rheal could not have been a better host and was so much fun to talk to about the winery, the vineyard, the winemaking process and the final product.  His passion for his work and his employer was infectious and we spent quite a while at this particular winery.  Tastings were supposed to be $3 for a flight of 3 wines but, Rheal managed to sneak in 5 leading us through what he felt best exemplified the wineries best work.  It was an amazing visit and the tasting fee was waived as we all bought some product.  I purchased a Pinot Noir, a Rosé and a Chardonnay which I have since used in a tasting (stay tuned for results).  Regrettably, we had to say goodbye to our new best friend and made our way into Jordan Station to purchase cheese and find a nice place to lunch.

The Upper Canada Cheese Company is owned by the same people who own Hidden Bench Winery and we had decided to stop in long before we knew this after seeing it advertised in a travel guide picked up at Rosewood.  This quaint little cheese shop with its own creamery, is an excellent stop and once inside we were immediately accosted by someone equally as friendly and enthusiastic as Rheal.  Five cheeses were laid out for tasting and all were excellent.  We enquired about a nice place for lunch, got directions, bought some groceries and made our way to look for the restaurant.

Zooma Zooma Cafe in Jordan looks, from the outside, like a century old cottage not too dissimilar to, though much smaller than, Auberge de Pommier.  From the inside, the two could not be more unalike.  Bohemian is the key word and the bright red painted walls with eclectic decor gives one pause to reconsider the choice.  But the food and service soon make you forget about the 1960's era formica topped table you are seated at and you settle in to enjoy very good food at extremely fair prices.  Entrees were an average of $9 and they serve pizza, sandwiches,salads and local wine.  A side of fries with smokey ketchup could be had for $3.  The three of us split a bill of $51 dollars which included two tea and a glass of Daniel Lenko wine.  Not a bad lunch to help re-energize for more wine tasting.

The next stop was not planned, but since we had become a little lethargic from cheese and lunch, we took the easy way out and visited Cave Spring Cellars conveniently located across the street from Zooma Zooma.  The tastings continued at Cave Spring as we tried the Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc at $1-$2 per wine tasted.  This fee was also waved upon purchase of wines from their store.   Unfortunately, tours of the facility are required to be pre-booked and the tasting room was relatively busy compared to other wineries and there was only the one staff member on duty.  We piled into Iain's truck and headed toward our fifth and final stop of the day.

Flat Rock Cellars was not one of my picks, it was suggested by Iain, and is an example of why you should stay flexible when visiting Niagara.  Flat Rock also has a state of the art, gravity fed, low environmental impacting, modern facility and the staff could not be more proud of it if they owned it themselves.  Sarah's favourite person from the tour (Kyle - equal in passion about wine to Rheal) led us in tastings of some of Flat Rocks finest offerings. First up, a 2010 Twisted, a blend of the regions best known whites: Chardonnay, Riesling and Gewurtztraminer.  This is a stellar wine that would be a great summer patio wine and would be great with potato salad and bbq fare.  We also tried the Pinot Noir and the Pinot Noir Rosé which were also quite approachable wines that would be great for patios and bbq's.   I did purchase a bottle of the Pinot Noir and was surprised that, despite having spent the least amount of money at this stop and having been given a quick-look tour of the processing area, the tasting fee of $5 was also waived.  I know at least two of us will be back soon to this winery, and one of us for the wine.

Having been my first trip to Niagara for the wineries I was not sure what to expect but I soon found out, that for wine lovers, this is a great way to spend a day and pick up some wines that are not carried in the local LCBO.  The people of Beamsville and Jordan are great ambassadors for the province: warm, welcoming, helpful and passionate about their region's biggest industry.  All but one of the wineries waved the tasting fee despite the fact that we did not all buy the minimum for waving.  All of the people, except one, greeted us with warm smiles and a sense of humour.  All, but one, were interested to know where we came from and what our experience with wine was.  All of them will, except one, see me again visiting their wineries.

The one exception is Hidden Bench, who I believe had the best wines but, gave us the worst experience.  Nobody appreciates more than I do all the hard work that goes into to making the products and producing the food that I put on my table and on the tables of my friends.  I am well aware that we were travelling outside the usual tour season and small wineries have a lot to do to prepare for the upcoming season but, there is a simple solution to ensuring you are not bothered when you don't want to be: hang a CLOSED sign up.  Many of the wineries I hoped to visit did just that and I will not hold it against them.  If you are too busy or unprepared to handle a small group in the middle of the week in a month like April, do yourself a favour and stay closed till the weekend.  But, may I make one suggestion to you Hidden Bench?  Perhaps, just perhaps, you could provide more than one glass to be shared among three people?  If you (and I don't know your name, ma'am) had not been the source of such amusement to us the rest of the day, and if the others in the region had not been so much your antithesis, my opinion of Niagara could have been as sour as the face you presented our entire visit.

But, we did not let that one low light ruin our day, and I can not emphasize enough how much I feel everyone in the province should make a point of touring the Beamsville Bench and Jordan Station.  Get out there now and enjoy some of the best wines in the world, because you are not likely to see them in the LCBO any time soon.   I guarantee your new favourite wine is just waiting for  you to discover it, and the friendly people of the region are waiting to introduce you.  Cheers!

So You Think You Know Wine - The Markham Edition

I have posted these videos in the past to illustrate how professional sommeliers approach wine tasting and their ability, or lack of same, in guessing what it is they are drinking.  In this example we see how three of the best can get tripped up.  Notice, also, their many excuses for failure.  In the end, they just didn't guess right.  Is it all a guess?  I think that what you see them doing is what we have come to describe as "educated guessing".  There is some obvious knowledge and most of them do better at certain types of wine than others but, all around their hit record is probably not much better than chance.  Additionally, keep in mind they are doing only one bottle at a time.

So, this brings me to a dinner party I cooked for last night at my friends Steve and Dion.  They decided to turn the tables and conduct their own wine tasting and they upped the difficulty level by including three bottles which only had one element in common: they were all red wines.  With that in mind, do you think you could guess country of origin, varietal or style, price and year?  This would be a tough task for anybody.  But, it would probably be impossible for a beer drinker with little to no wine tasting experience to even come close, right?

The three wines were: Chateau Tronquoy de Sainte Anne 2006 (Bordeaux France)$25, Bolla Amarone del Valpolicella Classico 2007 (Veneto, Italy)$37, Wolf Blass Shiraz 2010 (South Australia)$17.  No VQA wines were in the tasting (pitty).  These are 3 very distinct styles of wine with a Cabernet Sauvignon, Amarone and Shiraz that are full bodied and still fairly young by their grape standards.

We were asked to rate the wines in order of preference and the results were: Wolf Blass 5 first place votes, 2 second and 2 third; Amarone 3 first place, 2 second and 4 third; Bordeaux 1 first, 5 second and 3 third.  Making the Shiraz the clear favourite of the group.  As far as the rest of the guessing went, only one person managed to get all 3 vintages correct while the only one to guess a correct country and style was...wait for it...YES the beer drinker.  Yours truly was given a lowly score of 0, though I did manage to convince the judges that Bordeaux is not a varietal but rather a region and I did guess it was a Cabernet.  Overall, even the one guest disqualified for having insider information was unable to do better than 4 correct out of a possible 9.  Points for guessing the years were not included in the overall competition but were included solely for the purposes of a tie breaker.

Generally speaking, this tasting was very well done with all wines being decanted and guests were left to take their time evaluating.  I will steal this idea for later tastings but to simplify I think I will limit the tasting to one bottle and see if people can improve their guessing.  I still maintain that there is more guessing than knowing going on, even amongst the pros, and yet I can't help thinking if you were to come across your favourite wine you might just be able to recognize it and walk away looking like a pro.

Wine is a complex product which is complicated by the many flavour compounds that go into it; alcohol, tannins, fruit, sugar and the vessels they are stored in all contribute to the overall taste.  Add to that the changes in our mouths when we eat, drink or smoke; when we last brushed our teeth; what order we drink the different wines.  Then, add the environmental factors of cooking food, perfumes of guests, pets etc.  And the chances of picking out those complex flavours become slimmer and slimmer.  The process was both fun and enlightening with many people surprised at the results.  Conversation about the wines and the second guessing after the fact were also fun.  But, knowing that PK will rub everyone's noses in his victory for the next several months might be the most enjoyable part of the whole experience.

I Can Guess That WIne in Three Notes of Vanilla, Cassis and Pepper

Image via WikipediaIf you have ever checked out the YouTube channel "WineAlign" and their series of videos "So You Think You Know Wine" then you have probably been impressed with the ability of wine experts to accurately determine the origins, grape varietals, vintages and even price of various wines; and equally alarmed at how often they get them wrong.  So what is going on?  Are they just guessing, or do they really know wine that well?  I think the answer to the last question is yes.

Do you have a favourite band? Can you tell the difference between their earlier works and their later works?  More than likely you can because you have immersed yourself in their body of work and know what albums came first and what individual songs were on each album. Could you tell what period in their history a previously unknown work was first written if you came across one? Maybe.  Do you like music from a certain period of time, say the 70's?  Can you tell it from music made in the 50's or 80's?  Again, I think probably.   The same can be said for literature, its different genres and eras can also be distinguished and categorized if you study enough.  I believe the same holds true for the fine arts, as well.  To recognize them requires a familiarity with their characteristics, the regions they were created in, the intent of the artist and the experiences of the culture.

So why would wine be any different?  The very best experts have tasted a lot of wine and have to think long and hard about what they drink.  Most have a favourite style, region and even vintage.  I think that what we see when someone like John Szabo - who is extremely accurate in many of the videos - tastes wine, is a mind full of experiences trying to recall each of those experiences and then giving his best recollection of that experience.  There is a little bit of guessing going on, but there is in any of the aforementioned disciplines as well and we have no problem allowing those experts to pass judgement on the legitimacy of our favourite works.  And, the less familiar we are with any given work of music, literature or art, the less accurate we would tend to be.  When an expert gives an educated guess on a wine, they are looking for characteristics that their experiences have taught them to expect: what is the best region to grow a grape, what are the results of techniques used by regional wineries, how does acid and tannin balance change from region to region.

So what is happening when they are so far off?  One of two things, I believe: either they have not experienced a particular grape or region enough or they have experienced too much of that region and grape.  Information overload can be as much a block of recollection as lack of information.  Wine is made in almost every country of the world.  The are new wineries and new wines starting up every day and it would be impossible to have a database of knowledge within one mind to be able to distinguish between so many.  Even when these experts get the wine wrong I am amazed how often they mention the correct region before dismissing it, or how close to a region they can get while still choosing a neighbouring one;  there is quite a bit of similarity between northern Italian wines and southern French wines, as well as Ontario and German, BC and New Zealand, Australian and South African and the list goes on.  A Cabernet grape is a Cabernet grape, but the minerals it grows in are far reaching and picking out those mineral tendencies can be tricky.  Can anyone in Ontario tell the difference between Ontario strawberries and those from out of province.  I bet they can when they are in season.  Can you tell the similarities between your favourite band and bands from within the same genre, country or era?

I do believe that the experts can have enough experience to tell the difference between wines, this is their business and their passion, after all.  But, where I believe the experts try to exert too much sway is when they express an opinion on which is a better wine.  Despite their many experiences with wine, despite their encyclopedic knowledge of past vintages, they are still just one set of taste buds and olfactory systems experiencing the wine.  Their tastes and preferences have been influenced, throughout their lives, by their place of birth, their genetic makeup and their exposure to tastes and flavours at an earlier age.  We have all had our own experiences that affect our tastes and preferences, just as they have influenced our taste in music they will affect our taste in wine.  This is why I like to encourage people to try different wines, especially for different occasions, and explore the whole world of wine, and the best place to start is right in your own backyard.  For me that is Ontario.

If the argument is that some wines are better than others than it would hold that one is the best.  If that is so, why are there so many varieties from so many regions made in so many different styles?  Wine is a food product and like all food products people enjoy it in its many different styles and combinations.  As part of human culture, like all art, it is subjective and requires a receptive audience open minded enough to appreciate the experience.  I am not saying there is no such thing as bad wine; I just don't think it is anyone's place to tell you what you like is bad.  But, just as with music, literature or painting, I would hope you would try to appreciate a wider variety and remain open to new experiences.  There is a wine for everyone and some have more depth and complexity and, just as we expect to move from Dr. Seuss to Dr. Zhivago in our reading are appreciation for wine will grow and we might move from Mateus to Bordeaux.  This does not mean we can't appreciate a little Green Eggs and Ham occasionally, maybe with a little Champagne and orange juice.

Of Two Minds, When Experts Disagree

While reading this article in the NY Times 'Sensational' or Just 'Bad'? On 2010 Pavie, Two Critics Disagree, I couldn't help but think about this blog post I read.  These results shouldn't come as a surprise to anyone who has ever attended or conducted a blind tasting and asked people to describe what they were tasting. There is seldom any consensus and people often use different descriptors for the same wine.

So, are experts irrelevant? To some extent they are. About the best you can hope for is that they can offer a suggestion as to a pairing with a certain style of wine. They do taste a lot of wines and have some experience at matching flavours in wine and food. But, there are simply too many variables that go into tasting wine, food, beer etc. Aromas in the room, lighting, previous days' meals, a person's health and personal preference all contribute to the ability to discern flavour compounds. Our palates also change over time and as we get older we tend to enjoy bitter tastes more than when we were young. Does this make us more sophisticated? I don't think so; it just changes our preferences.  So, while an expert might know that a buttery Chardonnay from California is a better match with Guinea fowl in a mushroom sauce and Chablis with raw oysters or lightly grilled scallops, deciding which specific producer is better for you is outside of their expertise, in my opinion.

We are also very influenced by what others, or what we think others, think about something. The Asch conformity experiments demonstrated how susceptible we all are to the opinions of others and the importance we place on conforming. The more we associate with a particular group the more likely we are to suppress our senses and our ethics and go along with the group. Many times experts are just giving a description that they have come to think the group expects; this is true for those of us seeking advice as we tend to accept the advice that our peers have already shown agreement with.  This is why I hate competitions where judgement is left to others to determine a victor, such as gymnastics, figure skating and culinary battles.  The only winners are the judges who get the best seats and are paid, rather than paying, to be there.  

The world of wine tasting is, in my opinion, the most self indulgent pursuit in the world. To read descriptions of wine is to believe that you are going to be transported to some magical land of Oz. The fact is, like food, a wine will be better remembered when all of the components of a wonderful moment are in sync. It is a sympatico of tastes, textures, company, setting and occasion that makes for memorable times. Have you ever tasted a wine one day and thought "this is the best wine ever" and then experienced that wine in a different environment days later and wondered why it wasn't as good? I know I have.

Wine making is a very tricky craft that requires constant adjustments and readjustments. Barrel tasting is more important for the wine makers than it should be for wine consumers and I would never consider reviews of specific wines prior to bottling as so much can take place before then to influence the flavours. Overall, the 2010 barrel tastings have been quite positive and the consensus is that it was a fine vintage, but in the end the proof of the wine is in the tasting - from the bottle that is.

The problem with relying totally on experts - in any realm - is you are living the expert's life; you are relying on their life experiences and what they think is important.  Sooner or later you have to make a decision for yourself.  You can certainly give more consideration to the opinions of someone you admire or respect but, in the end it is your wine, food, etc. The best experts are the ones who tend not to tell you what to do but, rather, give you as much information as you need to make your own decision. 

St. Supéry Merlot 2007

I am, this minute, tasting a glass of St Supéry Merlot 2007 from Napa Valley.  St. Supéry is one of my favourite wineries in the world and they make a Sauvignon Blanc that is amazing.  We seldom see this producer in LCBO stores in Ontario, but it is a popular winery in BC liquor stores.  The LCBO are beginning to acquire more product from them and I like to think I had a hand in that by continually asking for it...maybe not.

As far as the tasting goes, this wine has a beautiful ruby red colour and a remarkable bouquet with aromas of dark tree fruit, eucalyptus and cedar.  On the nose the oak really comes through.  My first sip hit me with a nice acidity and fruit forward.  After a few moments the wood, once again, made an appearance with tobacco and vanilla flavours ending after a minute with tannins highlighting the tobacco flavour.  As it sits in the glass I am noticing a change in character with a pleasant liquorice flavour.

This is a wonderful wine and one that I think I will be able to store for about 3-4 years to enhance the fruit and mute the tannins.  I know I always advocate trying Ontario wines, but this is one of those wineries that just seems to match my palate and I highly recommend any of their wines, when you can find them.

Two Blends Mix It Up

This past Saturday some friends and I enjoyed left overs from the cooking over fire meal.  I brought along two Merlot/Cabernet blends to duke it out mano-a-mano.  The contenders were Chateau Patris 2008 from France and, as usual, an Ontario VQA: Mike Weir 2008.  Again, both were under $20.

We enjoyed some mild and strong cheese with pepper jelly and red pepper dip with crackers while tasting prior to the meal. As a group we were torn between the two wines and, as we went back and forth tasting and re-tasting, we kept changing our minds about our favourite.  Here is a new one: Mike Weir Merlot/Cabernet is a great match with Chateau Patris Merlot/Cabernet if you find yourself in need of such a match.  So the verdict was a tie.  The wines were distinctly different both in the nose and on the palate and both wines opened up nicely in the glass and in the open bottle.   The tasters had no trouble guessing the French from the Canadian. 

I really enjoyed this tasting.  It was done with a smaller group and and with fewer wines and this seemed to create more discussion and more thinking about the experience.  I will definitely do this more often, especially when I hear of a fabulous wine from another part of the world and want to see how Ontario's would fare in battle. 

Chardonnay Wine Tasting

I went to a 21st birthday party last night.  It was an elegant affair with the gentlemen in dinner jackets and black ties and the women in formal gowns.  A catered affair, with the finest of delicacies from around the culinary world.  Haute cuisine served on the most delicate china eaten with expensive silverware....pfft.  Yeah, right.  Suffice to say, it was a nice evening but far from formal (I'm looking at you Iain).  So to me, it seemed the perfect environment for a Chardonnay tasting.  Especially when one of the entrants has a label meant to resemble a tattoo.

Let's talk a little about Chardonnay.  If Pinot Noir can be said to reflect the talents of the wine maker, then Chardonnay can be said to reflect the talents of the grape growers as well as the terroir (the characteristics of the land the grapes are grown in, expressed in the taste).  But, this grape variety has a very checkered pedigree.  Many nations have taken credit for the origin of this grape and it was only due to recent DNA testing that the grape was found, probably, to be a mix of Pinot and Gouais Blanc.  The Chardonnay grape is - how should I put this - the slut of the grape world.  This grape takes to almost any soil and a wide variety of climates.  It has also been adaptable to cross breeding and is one of the most widely cloned and mutated varieties.  Chardonnay has a reputation of going with most foods, especially with the wide range of styles, there is probably a bottle that goes with everything.  As a result, and as any high school aged boy could predict, Chardonnay has become the most popular white wine grape in the world.  For a quick lesson in Chardonnay there is a pretty good Wikipedia article.

Once again, the rules were similar: all wines selected were under $20; the tasting was blind and there was an Ontario VQA entrant up against two nations known for their Chardonnay; and tasters were asked to rank the wines favourite to least 1-3 with a possible 33 first place points.  The one difference this time around was I asked the tasters to guess the origin of the wine.  We also had 11 tasters this time, so I think it gives a better representation of the tastes of my friends.  A note on the selections: a white Burgundy or Chablis grand cru would obviously be a stunning example along with the very best of California Chardonnays and Australians.  Les Clos Jordanne from Ontario could stand up- and, in fact has- to these higher examples.  But, the idea is to find good wines that fall in the < $20 category.  If you have never had, in your opinion, a good Chardonnay, may I suggest you bust the bank and try a Chablis, ask the clerk to help you out and you might find a decent one for under $30cad.

So now the line-up:

From France, Laurent Miquel "Pere et Fils" Chardonnay non vintage @$12.
From the USA Rutherford Wine Co. Gold Ring Organic 2009  @$16.95
From Canada Indelible Wines Vintage Ink Chardonnay 2010  @$16.95 (A note to last night's tasters. I kept saying this was from 13th St.  That is because I am an idiot.  A look at the label would have let you know that.)

The results:

Hide your eyes if you are a fan of California organic wines. The overwhelming favourite with 29 points and 8 of 11 first place votes was Indelible Wines Vintage Ink.  Second place with 24 points and 2 first place votes was the French Laurent Miquel Pere et Fils and in third with 13 points and no first place votes was the Gold Ring Organic from California.

None of the wines were considered undrinkable and, in fact, the Chardonnay drinkers in the crowd liked all three.  The winner was described as more full bodied and creamier.  Most people thought that the Canadian wine was from France while most thought the French wine was from the US.  Two people guessed all three correctly.  For those of you who were there A was Canadian, B was Californian and C was French.  The wines we tasted were emblematic of the Chardonnay style in that each had a different style and ranged from the mineral to the creamy to the fruity.  This time, more than last, the tasters were quite surprised by their choice.  I will be adding the winner to my list of wines in the column to the right and look forward to many pleasurable evenings with this versatile, popular and easy going wine, which could be just as at home at casual gatherings and formal affairs.

Stop it I'm Blushing

Rosés have a bad reputation, one that is undeserved.  Most people would associate these wines with poorly made, intensely sweet and fruity wines lacking depth and nuance. Yet I am unsure why, perhaps something to do with some poorly made Mateus or misconception about the process, many believe it involves mixing red and white grapes prior to pressing, or mixing red and white wine prior to bottling.  But, in reality, mixing of white and red, while one method, is very rare and frowned upon by quality winemakers.  Instead, rosés gain their blush from the same method reds receive their deep colours, just in a less intense manner.  Contact with grape skins and stems imparts the colour, tannins and phenols to red wine.  A rosé  is made by limiting this contact to no more than a few days early in the process.  After pressing, the juices are allowed to remain in contact with the skins for only a short time and then one of two things happen: either the entire volume of juice is extracted and placed in vats for fermentation or only a portion of the juice is extracted, more for the purpose of intensifying the tannins in the remainder of the volume.  This latter method is known as saignée.

Whether the entire volume or just a portion of the juice is extracted the rest of the process is the same as making white or red wines.  Rosés tend to have some of the same characteristics as good red wines in the nose and on the palate with less of the complexities that come from tannins and phenols.  This makes them dry, fruity, acidic and what people would call lighter or brighter in flavour.  Oak barrels may or may not be used in the aging of the wine.  Historically, rosés came from the grape varieties that make for good light to medium bodied reds, such as Gamay, Corvina, Dolcetto and Beaujolais.  But recently there has been a trend to the heavier varieties like Syrah and Granache and even Merlot.

Rosé sales in France have now exceeded sales of white wine.  This, perhaps more than any other argument, speaks loudly to the quality of rosé production around the globe.  Rosé's popularity may also be gaining in conjunction with the growth in popularity of grilling and barbecuing.  These wines are perfect for when you are enjoying a variety of dishes where exact matching is impossible without having several bottles on hand.  Perfect for picnics, parties and barbeques, rosés will not soon lose their reputation as the wine of choice for summer patios.

Now on to my picks:  as you recall I picked two of the Vintages selection from LCBO.  The first was L'Amphore de Provence 2010 from Provence, France $13.95cad.  The second was Chateau De Fontelles Tenue de Soirée Rosé 2010 from Midi, France $13.95cad.  Both wines were selected because they were under $15cad and received excellent scores in the Vintages catalogue.

The tasting was conducted at my friend BW's house and I cooked a barbeque lemon-herbed chicken with roasted golden beets, grilled summer squash and a salad of wild arugula and sorrel.  Both wines held up nicely to the chicken and the Provence selection was excellent with the salad, cutting the acidity of the dressing nicely.  The Midi wine was by far the more substantial of the two, having been derived from a syrah and granache mix, this went extremely well with the chicken.  The Fontelles was also much darker in colour.  We concluded that the Fontelles would be the wine of choice if you tended to lean toward a preference for red wines, while the L'Amphore would be more suited to people who preferred a white.  Both wines offered a depth not typical to white wines and without the tannins and phenols of red.  If you were only to choose one wine, and at $13.95 the price is hardly prohibitive, I would lean toward the Fontelles.

Just a personal note about the food.  I have said for some time that, when it comes to bbq, BW easily holds her own with anyone.  She has, for as long as I recall, followed religiously the instructions in the Weber bbq guide that came with her Weber grill.  The Chicken was amazing.  The skin was exceptionally crispy and the meat was tender and succulent.  The key to good grilling is to have faith and allow the grill to work by leaving the lid alone. If you haven't a guide that came with your Weber grill, then definitely click on the Amazon link and get the Weber guide with recipes.  You won't regret.

So You Think You Know Wine

Here is a video indicative of how our tasting went last night

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MGNMpqfwhUk&feature=player_embedded

Pinot Noir Tasting

Last evening I hijacked a friends dinner party to conduct a wine tasting for Pinot Noir.  I brought the wine, so I don't think she had too much of  a problem with it.  The purpose for the dinner was because we were all hungry and my friend hates being alone.  Perfect reasons for a dinner party.  The menu consisted of grilled leg of lamb, mashed potatoes, green beans and a heirloom tomato salad.  We also enjoyed bacon wrapped water chestnuts, oysters and various crackers and dips.  The food was excellent.

The setting was even nicer.  This friend's home is situated on a large property backing onto a ravine and graveyard so perfect for entertaining.  We actually spend a lot of time at her house and enjoy the yard almost as much as the mosquitos do.  There is a hot tub, a fire pit and ample seating.  The music is...well...eclectic, especially when the remote is in the hands of the hostess: tastes and volume may change with amounts consumed.

The tasting panel consisted of a group of good friends who spend a lot of time together and enjoy each others company.  Some reports peg the average consumption of wine at 1/2 a bottle per week. HA! Amateurs!  Members of this panel do that before the apps hit the table.  This panel is nothing if not experienced in drinking mass quantities.  Their level of appreciation, on the other hand, varies.  Most were also not overly familiar with wine terminology (not a bad thing) and few drink Pinot Noir on a regular basis. In fact, this group has their favourite, usually affordable, standard wine that they drink with everything without much thought to food pairings.  Basically, average drinkers who consume for the sake of the buzz but want to learn more.

Ok, The Line Up:

A BY ACACIA PINOT NOIR 2009
VINTAGES 118927 | 750 mL bottle

Price: $ 16.95
Wine, Red Wine
13.8% Alcohol/Vol.

Sugar Content : XD

Made in: California, USA
By: Diageo Canada Inc

Release Date: Jan 8, 2011 


WAYNE GRETZKY NO. 99 ESTATE SERIES PINOT NOIR 2007
VINTAGES 129056 | 750 mL bottle

Price: $ 18.95
Wine, Red Wine
12.5% Alcohol/Vol.

Sugar Content : XD
This is a VQA wine

Made in: Ontario, Canada
By: No. 99 Wayne Gretzky Estates

Release Date: Aug 6, 2011 


KIM CRAWFORD PINOT NOIR (V)
VINTAGES 626390 | 750 mL bottle

Price: $ 19.95

Limited Time Offer
Was: $ 19.95
Now: $ 19.95
Save: $ 1.00                  Apparently math is not a core competency at LCBO
Until Sep 11, 2011

Other Limited Time Offers

Wine, Red Wine
13.5% Alcohol/Vol.

Sugar Content : D

Made in: Region Not Specified, New Zealand
By: Constellation Wines Nz

Release Date: N/A     

VINCENT MORIN LACOMBE PINOT NOIR BOURGOGNE  VINTAGES 208496 | 750 mL bottle  Price: $ 16.95  Wine, Red Wine 12.5% Alcohol/Vol. Made in: Burgundy, France By: Vdvf Release Date: N/A  All of the wines were under $20 cad and were selected as an affordable example of an entry level Pinot Noir typical to the region.  Pinot Noir is known for its difficulty to get right and is indicative of a winemakers skills.  Pinots should be a well balanced blend of sweetness, acidity and tannins.  They should have hints of dark red tree fruit such as cherrys and plums as well as pepper and tobacco.  Served with the wines were a strong salami and a mix of mushrooms with herbs, ginger, garlic and shallots on bread.  Pinots are an excellent pairing with lean proteins, Asian and moderately spicy food and herbal foods.  Each wine was served in a fresh, clean glass and the tasting was blind. Each panelist was asked to rate the wines in order of favourite to least favourite 1 - 4.  Each wine scored 4 points for each first place vote, 3 for second, 2 for third and 1 point for fourth.  They also left comments on the cards with what they liked and disliked. The consensus choice with 4 of a possible 6 first place votes and a total of 21 of 24 points was the French representative.  Generally the comments were "well balanced" "peppery" "less harsh" The second place wine was Canada's (yeah!).  Receiving 15 of 24 points, 1 first place vote and 3 seconds. Two people, however, rated it least favourite. "Dry" "peppery" "less harsh" were the typical comments. Third was the New Zealand wine which I was told was the LCBO's number one selling Pinot Noir.  The panel did not agree with only one person rating it their favourite and one second place.  This wine scored a total of 14 out of 24 so only slightly lower than the Canadian.  The panel found this wine lighter in colour and body than the others and too unbalanced for their palates. Fourth was the American wine with no first place votes, 1 second place and the most fourth place votes than any other wine.  It scored ten of a possible 24 points.  Tasters found it too heavy on tannins and much too dry.  They struggled finding the fruit in this wine.  (on a personal note: I think this wine would do best with a roast chicken or turkey than the others but is not a casual wine which may explain its rating with this panel) Let me say that this is not intended to suggest that one wine is better than any other (though hard to argue against any good French wine) but is meant to demonstrate the palate diversity of average drinkers and to, perhaps, breakdown some of the snobbery surrounding Ontario wines.  I think the panel would be much more inclined to try a VQA wine.  I think they were surprised and delighted with their choice.  All 4 wines are very good and I would have no problem recommending them.  Remember, a recommendation is not a guarantee of enjoyment.