I Got No Beef With Joe Beef!

I know very few bad asses in my life.  The ones I do know are pretty bad, and are the standard by which all bad asses are measured, by me.  I know of no bad ass cooks or chefs despite the current trend of macho bad ass wannabes in the culinary world.  If yelling at staff, throwing tantrums and eating stuff that makes others queasy makes you bad, well then, ok, you're bad in a kind of pathetic sort of way.

So when I first became aware of David McMillan and Frédéric Morin I saw what, at first blush, appeared to be a couple of guys trying to cash in on this tough cook trend.  The stories of throwing bus boys into dumpsters and dropping the odd "f bomb" in interviews did not impress me much and I wondered what it could be about this duo's restaurant and cooking that receives so many accolades.  I ordered the book, fully intending to find evidence of hypocrisy and double standards.  Yes, I would research and study them and I would find reason to dislike them. Yes, yes I would.

And sure enough, in the opening forward, the first of said evidence of a large blow-hard of a man attempting to intimidate a restauranteur who just wanted to see what all the fuss was about.  Wow, cussing. How tough.  And there was further evidence like, they're from Montreal.  Need I say more?  They have a contempt for the refined, haute cuisine of modern fine dining establishments.  They revel in the culture of the the old time taverns and casse-croute of Old Montreal and are driven by the muse of an old tavern owner in a seedier part of town: one known as Joe Beef.  They wear blue jeans and wool Mack Jackets and skater shoes.  They dress the part of the antithesis of haute cuisine.  They close for 2 weeks every July and 10 days at Christmas.  They write their menu on a blackboard and won't take your order if you can't read it.  They admire the customer who orders a plate of oysters and Molson Ex.  You know... they actually sound like my kind of people.

David McMillan is a history buff: score one point.  Frédéric Morin is a railroad enthusiast: score another point.  Both feel uncomfortable in the presence of the rich and famous and prefer the company of working classes: another point.  They turned down a request to cater a Tourisme Montreal event for high end clients because they "hate doing it" and because "we would only disappoint you with our bad attitudes and lethargic ways." OK! Cut it out! I'm supposed to be disliking you bastards!

I am not sure, exactly, at which page I first became aware that I was falling in love with Joe Beef.  Maybe it was the books lay out, the impeccable writing, the brilliant photography.  No. It was the people.  Despite the gruff appearance these are people I could like.  Loyal to their staff and the investors who supported them.  Proudly Montrealers, Quebecers and Canadians (in that order).  Supportive of their local suppliers.  Committed to their philosophy.  And, humble enough to admit when they made mistakes.  They believe in themselves and the people that supply the products they sell and it shows in the book, the recipes and the enormous following their businesses have enjoyed.  Chefs love these guys.  Farmers, fishers and butchers love these guys.  And, I love these guys.

Oh, sure, there is still some image and brand management behind what they do and how they act, and it is always a fine balancing act to embrace the food of the masses and charge the prices they do, but that balance is summarized nicely by McMillan when he talks about Champagne:

Champagne is not a festive beverage.  Champagne is a wine that should be drunk every day for no apparent reason.  Life is short, hard, and can often suck.

The prices they charge are an attempt to keep the food as accessible as possible while maintaining a high quality of locally sourced produce.  This is a tough thing to do without going broke and they have managed it nicely.  Their experience is shared with their readers in a section near the back of the book titled "The Joe Beef Address Book" where everything from B&B's to shops and restaurants are listed; and throughout the book they list the names and locations of their suppliers.  The book is a resource for restauranteurs and chefs as much as home cooks and foodies.

The book is also a reference for a way of living and a philosophy on life.  Every chapter, in fact every recipe, begins with a story of how they came to a particular philosophy or approach to food and dining (and travel for that matter).   In the chapter "Tall Tales, Taste, And A Few Theories" Morin discusses the few theories that guide the approach of his kitchen and restaurant.  None sum up what these guys are about better than Theory #8:

Perks: It's always seemed funny to us that a restaurant will go out of its way to offer special treatment to people with millions in the bank, yet the couple who saved for months to eat at the same place on a special occasion is somehow lucky to be there.  If we notice a passionate student-type or a couple on a first date eating in one of our restaurants, we will give them the world.  They will have the entire menu for thirty bucks.  Its our pleasure to give them a complimentary bottle of good wine.  Of course, this is not a habit, but we do it once in awhile.

This attitude is re-enforced in Chapter 7 A Word On Wine when McMillan discusses the importance of wine with dinner:

If you bring your partner into the restaurant and spend all of your time talking to your waiter about wine (which I see all the time) instead of focusing on the conversation, you're a jerk.  A restaurant meal is a precursor for the acts of business, friendship, and lovemaking.  Leave your wine OCD at home.  Once you choose the wine and taste it ( this should only take three minutes, not twenty), there is no more talking about wine.  Then it's time to talk about how pretty your date's dress is or how nice your date smells, how well you're doing this quarter, or how many widgets you've sold. 

These are words to live by.  And live they do.  The intent of Joe Beef was to have a restaurant that they could run the way they wanted and to open and close according to their schedule.  They take time away from the business and travel by rail every chance they get.  This has given them a perspective on the country that most of us miss out on, and makes a mockery of the rest of the country's impression of Montrealers.  These guys love Canada and are not shy about saying so.  There is no hint of flattery when they say Winnipeg, PEI and even (gasp!) Toronto are among their favourite places to visit.   They have taken the time to experience their suppliers' lives and work to better understand their own food.  What a great thought:  a better understanding of me by understanding the community of people that have shaped me.

Forget for a minute all the philosophy.  If you pick this book up for nothing but the recipes it would still be an amazing addition to any collection.  The recipes are presented in descriptive, easy to follow steps that describe the techniques and methods utilized so that nothing is left out of the preparation.  Great detail appears to have been taken to get the recipes right and they are easy to follow.  I have personally made some of the easier sides and condiments and they are excellent.

I have spent nearly a month with this book and it has felt like a great friend.  The attitudes and philosophies espoused by Morin and McMillan mesh with my own and I think would mesh with every Canadian.  If you have a stake in the Canadian food industry (and who doesn't) this is a must read and Joe Beef is a must visit.  I myself would love to eat there but I hate travelling and I can't afford it, but I feel confident that I can replicate many of the dishes, if not by the letter than certainly by the spirit of the recipes.  What can't be replicated is the atmosphere.  Or maybe that isn't right, since I did get a genuine feel for the atmosphere without ever having set foot in Joe Beef.  It is, after all, just an attitude.