The Future of Food - The Problem of Organic

As you might recall in my initial post in this series I discussed the unique case of Cuba and the effects on the country's farming practices as a result of the collapse of the Soviet bloc.  At the time, Cuba's communist partners provided it with highly subsidized oil, fertilizer and grain that helped meet the dietary needs of its people while allowing Cuba's land to be used for its traditional crops and as a natural paradise for vacationing communists.  The Cuban diet at the time was heavy on breads, cereals, meats, dairy and sugar much like the majority of the industrialized world.  These were cheap staples that were grown throughout the communist world and easily transported.

Since the collapse of the Soviet bloc, Cuba has had to re-invent its agricultural identity.  With a lack of cheap oil for fertilizers and the running of farm equipment, Cuba turned to a more organic method of farming which saw them increase diversification and increase self sufficiency.  Cuba now grows 95% of its fruits and vegetables locally and the typical diet has diversified and contains far more fruits, vegetables and legumes.

However, this has not been the success that it at first glance appears.  The cost to the Cuban ecology has been a reduction in the forest canopy as trees were cleared to make room for more farm land and to allow greater sunshine to the crops.  Fruits and vegetables have become more expensive as a greater number of labourers has been required to maintain them, though in a strictly communist country this cost has been controlled.  And, with limited land and greater pressure to meet dietary needs, Cuba's agricultural industry has little stock left for exporting which leaves an already struggling economy even more depressed.

In addition to the ecological and environmental costs, and despite growing 95% of their fruits and vegetables, Cuban's must still import 50% of the food required to meet their needs.  While the country can meet the demands for fruit, vegetables and legumes, this does not give them their full protein requirements without the addition of grains which require more land than Cuba has available.  Chickens are the main source of meat protein for the country as land for grazing larger animals is scarce.  All of this has seen a drastic change in the Cuban diet with mixed results.

Cuba's experience teaches much about the organic movement, both positive and negative.  The positives are what was touched on in my last post, so I won't rehash it here.  The greatest negative is the  myth that everyone everywhere can eat local organic food year round and meet all our dietary needs.  This is just fantasy.  In Canada we face the prospect of long winters (even in our warming climate) and the scarcity of fresh produce in the winter would mean a depletion of vitamin C amongst other nutrients.  Of course, there are sources available locally for vitamin C, though I hope you like the taste of Pine.  Canning and preserving foods is certainly an option (and one I endorse) but the thought of another jar of preserved tomatoes for dinner around March is as appetizing for most as the thought of stewed pig's head.  Not to mention, canned and preserved foods do not retain their full nutritional content during the process and usually require added sugar and salt, which may not be advantageous considering our current health.

Cuba also teaches us that organic farming does nothing in the way of reducing the costs of farming to the environment.  Farming, whether industrial or organic, requires the clearance of forests and actually diminishes the biodiversity of the planet.  In Cuba, the reduction in forests is currently placing greater stress on species that are already under threat.  The same is true in parts of Africa and India where we see increased incidents of confrontation between wild life and humans.  In some parts of Africa one can make the argument that the wildlife is winning: i.e. the baboon problems in South Africa .

You might all notice that we have travelled through time during this series; Travelling to Cuba gives us a chance to travel back in time.  Cuba is stuck in a time prior to World War Two when the greatest changes in agriculture really came about.  They lack the machinery and the chemicals that the rest of the world has; and they lack the transportation and markets for their produce that others enjoy.  But, what really challenges the Cuban people is the location of their island in the middle of hurricane alley.  Despite all of their best efforts and intentions, Cubans could be thrust into further poverty and starvation should a damaging enough hurricane hit just before harvest time.  This could be even further catastrophic if it were to happen while the rest of the world's agriculture struggles with droughts, floods, hail etc., and their crops become unavailable for emergency relief.

The Organic Movement loves to time travel about as much as I do with one exception, they only travel backwards and only to a time prior to the 20th century.  In the minds of these proponents everything was much rosier and life was idyllic.  But this idea is also a myth.  Even the most advanced economies in the Victorian age had extreme levels of poverty, child and infant mortality, poorer health, and shortened life expectancy.  From a farming standpoint, drought, flood and other natural disasters were all that stood between the well fed and starvation.  Famine prior to the 20th century was caused primarily by natural disasters; since then most of the world has been famine free and when they do occur they are caused strictly by human activity.  Since the end of World War Two, human life expectancy has climbed year over year despite the damages of the industrial farms and the mistakes of agricultural science.

The organic movement is not without its hazards as well.  The largest food poisoning episode in Europe appears to have been caused by organic produce.  The culprit is E-coli and sequencing of the disease in bean sprouts identified that the problem is not just in the fertilizing stage but exists in the seeds themselves, whether grown organically or not (btw: do not eat raw bean sprouts ever).  Add to this episode the water contamination from manure in Walkerton, which may not have occurred on a certified organic farm but was certainly a method of fertilization that is acceptable in organic practice; the contamination of spinach on farms in California; and the poisoning of the poster boy of organic, Prince Charles' own brand of potato chips.

One last myth about organic is that local is better.  Again, under scrutiny this does not hold up.  As I said before, some places are not capable of growing some produce and even when they can the yields and quality may suffer.  The environmental benefits of locally grown may also be over estimated as researchers look at the efficiency of transportation in terms of cost per kilogram of food.  And if local, organic food is supposed to taste better then that argument, too, has some holes in it.

With no clear indication that organic is better tasting, better for you or, in some regards, better for the environment is there then a better solution and must we just throw out all of the ideas of the organic movement?  I hope to give you a chance to decide that for yourselves in the next post.

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And The Winners Are...

A few days ago, the Lieutenant Governor's Award for Excellence in Ontario Wines winners list was announced.  So head on over to the LCBO and demand they get some for you.  My personal favourite is the 30 Bench Riesling, the Stoney Ridge Chardonnay and the Flat Rock Sparkling Brut.  Oddly enough, these are also the only ones I have had a chance to sample :)

A New Take On Corn Mazes

Let me know if these articles are depressing you.  Here is another story of the effect global warming is having on the food supply.  In this case, the poor corn crop will have an astounding impact on several consumer products, not just the corn itself.  Gas prices will be higher; milk and other dairy prices (which have already been climbing) will increase; beef, lamb, chicken and even pork will be more expensive.  In addition, other grains such as wheat, oats and barley will increase in price as farmers look to replace corn as their main winter feed.  As grains become scarcer in grocery stores, consumers will look to other staples to replace them, so expect increases in potatoes, rice and legumes.

These are the kinds of every day struggles humans will have to get used to in the uncertainty of a rapidly warming planet.  Mix in our ever expanding populations and our tenuous hold on civility could unravel as quickly as it has in the Arab and North African regions.  Our society needs a cultural make over; one that places less emphasis on the automobile, coal fired electricity, disposable everything and the belief that everything will always be there when we want it.  It seems to me that, in the story of the grasshopper and the ants, our generation has missed the moral.

Some of the ways to limit the impact of these uncertain times are already trendy amongst the hipster foodies, which is a shame because those trends always get lost when new ones take their place.  But, we need to start looking at food as less about pleasure and more about sustenance if we are to accomodate more of us.  The good news is, we can still find pleasure and enjoyment in this list:

1) Grow your own.  If you have access to some land that could be cleared and tilled and seeded you would do a lot to secure your food supply by planting a few basic crops to supplement your grocery list.  And it doesn't even take a lot of land to do it.
2) Share your seeds.  If you do start to grow your own food, the first thing you will notice is how expensive some seeds and seedlings can be.  But, learning to save your own seeds is easy enough and you can even trade with your friends and neighbours
3) Canning and Preserving.  This is where food and culture really meet.  Have a canning party; give preserves as gifts; exchange recipes.  It's fun for the whole family.  And, if you need a lesson, I will bet there is an Italian family within walking distance of you, if your live in Markham/Toronto/Anywhere, who would be happy to show you how easy it is.
4) Attend food swaps.  Here you can swap what you have too much of for items you are in need of.  Can't find a local swap?  Check our YYZ Food Swap on Facebook.

I hear you all saying that you can't fit that into your busy schedules.  Well, cut down on dinner parties and pot lucks and throw seed exchanges and food swaps instead.  Just as easy as a cookie swap at Christmas without all the annoying christians.  All of this, I am convinced, would be better for our health, our planet and our society.

Just When You Think A Corporation Gets It...

I was so excited about two recent decisions by McDonalds to become more open about their food and service and then I go and read the following item by Dr. Steve Mann Physical assault by McDonald's for wearing Digital Eye Glass.  I don't have any information for Dr. Mann to assist in his attempt to seek redress with McDonalds, but if anyone knows how to get in touch with McDonalds of France maybe send him a message.  

'via Blog this'

Is It Warm Enough For You Yet?

The CBC is back with another gloomy report about our changing environment, this time with a story about the Pacific Ocean acid levels.  Don't expect things to get much easier and do expect a rising cost for seafood.

'via Blog this'

Hot Enough For You?

My first post in the Future of Food series outlined what the world might be like in 50 years when we reach nearly 10 billion people.  CBC is reporting on the impact that this year's weather is having on food production right  now.  Check out this MSN video - Rising cost of crops.  This will, of course, be good news for those whose corn crops are unaffected and for those who bet against the market, but overall bad news for those who have to feed their families in an already flat economy.

Now If They Would Just Give Me the Pizza Recipe

Two all beef patties, special sauce, lettuce, cheese, pickles, onions on a sesame seed bun.  The burger that has become an American classic, has been called by Federic Morin a recipe in perfect balance and is one of the few fast food items I admit to craving.  And now you can make it better by making it at home.  McDonald's has released a video of exactly what is in the "special sauce" and I for one applaud them for understanding that sharing recipes won't undermine your business but instead will build loyalty.

I did some experimenting to get the proportions right for you.  Oh, the sacrifices I make for you people.

3/4 Cup Mayo
1/4 Cup Relish
1 tsp each:
Yellow Mustard
Onion Powder
Garlic Powder
Paprika (plain, not smoked, not hot)
White Wine Vinegar

And now, if you will excuse me, I have some burgers to make.

The Future of Food - The Case for Organic

Very shortly, Markham will join the ranks of the privileged few communities to welcome into theirs a Whole Foods Market.  The emblem of all things organic, sustainable and politically correct will be offering their brand of organic produce within a bicycle ride of my home.  It doesn't seem all that long ago that I recall Loblaws setting aside a small space in their produce section for organic items; they now have sections throughout the store.  And the movement is only just getting started, with just an estimated 2% of the share of the food market.  What is this new organic movement all about?

Hey, that trip we took into the future was fun, wasn't it?  How about another trip?  Into the past...say 150 or so years.  What did the world look like then and how was food prepared?  In the Victorian era there was simply food.  Farmers struggled to eek out a living on leased land hoping only to keep mother nature happy enough to let them bring their crops in without too much loss.  New technologies and some new fertilizers were available, but for most farmers around the world these were simply too costly for them to utilize.  Virtually all produce (vegetable and animal) was grown in a manner that most today would consider organic.  The need for a distinction between organic and conventional produce was non-existent, and the first supermarket was still about 50 years away.

With little in the way of synthetic chemicals available to farmers, finding the acceptable level of pests and invasive weeds meant constant monitoring and back-breaking manual labour.  The keys to success then are the same used in organic farming today: soil health and water preservation.  Organic farming attempts to identify the beneficial plants, insects and animals and use them to regulate the unwanted pests without the use of modern pesticides, seen as harmful.  Compost, crop rotation and manure are the chief forms of fertilizer used to eliminate synthetic forms also thought to be harmful.  And ground cover crops are the preferred manner of preserving moisture in the soil.  The ideal of a living garden is the driving philosophy and, when accomplished, the pride of every organic farmer.

And this form of farming has many beneficial properties depending on the level to which one is prepared to dedicate their farm.  One of the most serious problems that synthetic fertilizers have caused is the proliferation of invasive weeds and algae in our rivers, streams, lakes and oceans due to nitrogen run off.  This is causing many of our fresh water species to be choked out as they struggle to deal with these invasive species.  Organic farming looks to limit this run off by using natural sources of nitrogen that, in theory, should remain in the soil longer.

Another serious problem with a modern farm is the constant tilling and turning of large swaths of land causing serious soil erosion.  In the early part of the 20th century the US government commissioned a continuing study of soil erosion only to see erosion increase in the nearly 100 years since the office was formed.  Many organic methods help solve this issue, again in theory, by top dressing with compost and using a no-till method of farming in some areas.

The modern farm is one of speciality.  Growing large amounts of one or two crops allows the farmer to realize the greatest return on investment.  But, this use of land is inherently risky as all crops are susceptible to variations in weather and other environmental risks, i.e. insects and disease.  As we saw in Irish history, this kind of specialization can have deadly consequences.  The organic model, with its requirement of symbiosis, encourages a greater level of biodiversity which is not only a benefit to the environment and the farmer, but contributes to a greater variety in our diets which leads to a healthier lifestyle.

The pre-Victorian and early Victorian era farmer was not concerned with global warming and greenhouse gases.  The industrial revolution was in its infancy and green house gases were, while existent, not at the levels we have today.  Farming at this time was contributing little to the accumulation of these gases with most of it from clearing forests to make room for more farm land.  Motorized farm equipment had yet to be invented and the horse was still the main source of power on farms of the day.  Petroleum use was almost non-existent and the use of those products in production of fertilizers and pesticides had yet to be developed.  Organic farming, today, tries to replicate that environment and seeks to reduce the use of petroleum products in all aspects of production.  Many proponents advocate the scaling down of the typical farm.  And, on the small scale, the organic farm could accomplish some reduction in greenhouse gas emissions.

For a Victorian farmer, watering their crops meant waiting for rain or using the horse and their backs to haul large amounts of water to the fields.  The lack of motorized water pumps meant that water needed to be managed.  Part of that management included diverting rivers and streams into irrigation channels in the fields and the use of cover crops to ensure the moisture stayed in the ground.  Farmers at this time had as little concern about water shortages as they did about greenhouse gases, but the cost in manual labour to bring water to the fields was high enough to use water wisely.  Today's organic farmer is faced with more drought, less ground water, desertification and higher costs for water in some areas.  The motivation to preserve water is just as high and use of those traditional methods has helped to keep crops well irrigated.  As we inch toward 10 billion human population the preservation of water will become ever more critical to our survival.

Today's hipster foodies gorge themselves at the trendiest snout-to-hoof restaurants on everything from sweetbreads to liver to pig's foot.  In the Victorian era, the use of every scrap of an animal, and all everyday items for that matter, was a matter of survival.  The tastier, more tender parts of an animal were as preferred then as they are now, but staving off starvation meant brains, hearts, eyeballs, tongues and ears were as common as rib eyes and loins.  Bones were used for stocks and soups and then sold for turning into meal.  Fabric was re-used, recycled and the tiniest scraps were sent out for shod; the spinning of scraps into yarn (it's this practice that we get the word shoddy as a synonym for lesser quality items).  This "waste not want not" attitude is being resurrected by the organic movement as waste reduction becomes more critical and once again a matter of our survival.  Discouraging the use of plastics and disposables helps divert tons of waste that would otherwise end up in land fills where it would remain for eternity.

Where livestock is concerned, the organic movement demands a reduction in the use of antibiotics and growth hormone as well as a greater emphasis on more humane forms of farming.  Every attempt is made to provide livestock with a free ranging lifestyle that is thought to be less stressful.  Livestock are seen as part of the living farm, and their presence a vital cog in the farm machine, therefor, animals are to be treated with all due respect from the moment they are brought into the world until their inevitable departure.

In short, the organic farmer's goal is to build a living farm with a harmonic balance of respect for the land and animals, care for the soil and produce, preservation of the natural world and conservation of water and natural resources.  This is not a new philosophy, this is farming through most of human history.  Is it a form of food production that is sustainable and can it feed the 10 billion people that will be alive on the planet in 50 years?  While it was the method that fed the majority of the human family in  the past, will it be the answer to feeding the majority of them in the future?  Can it do the job without stripping even more natural habitat from other species already on the brink of extinction?  Will it help cool a planet whose warming is already out of control?

The answer to all those questions is yes and no.

How to Make a Salad

Came across this video from Jamie Oliver's Google+ feed and thought I would share it, because I think his salads are amazing and he gives great tips for keeping it simple.