Wednesday, August 31, 2011

Preserving the Past

Summer is waning and the last few weeks of the season will find many people turning their attention to preparing for the fall and the eventual winter (ugh!).  For many, especially the Italian community, this means a couple of days of preserving the bounty of their gardens.  I have walked past many an open garage the past two weeks and observed entire families at work on the assembly line prepping, cooking and canning tomatoes.  The smell of garlic, basil and tomato was intoxicating.  But, I got to thinking about how few people I personally know who bother with canning and preserving.

When I was a child I used to love visiting my maternal grandparents' home on Runnymede Rd. and venturing down to the cellar where baskets full of what appeared to be dirt revealed, after further inspection, some of the largest carrots, beets and potatoes I have ever seen.  This was a proper cellar whose only use was the storage of, besides the winter vegetables,  preserved tomatoes, cucumbers and jams and jellies of every fruit grown in Canada. My grandmother would ask us to retrieve one item or another and I always happily complied.  Back then I remember the food somehow tasting just a lot better than what we buy in stores today.

There was one product I was especially fond of: tomato chili.  This was not a spicy chili like salsa but, rather a sweet and sour tomato relish that always, even today, reminds me of those days at my grandparents.  We would always have jars to take home with us when we left, even though my mother also made her own version, and it is still my favourite condiment on hamburgers.  My sisters have both taken a shot at making chili, and while they both make good ones, nothing has ever matched those chilis of my mother and grandmother.  I would occasionally receive a jar from an elderly Mrs. Dart, who's mail I delivered, and her recipe came close to my memory. But the craft seems to have fallen out of favour with most families today.

It's a shame, I think, that our culture no longer preserves food like we used to, and our cellars have all been converted to finished basements which are used instead for recreation, retreat, entertaining or, most often, additional revenue, rather than the year round storage of food and wine.  We can complain all we want about a lack of time but, my grandmother had 10 children and still found the time.  My own mother worked full time as a nurse and had 7 children and still managed to pickle, preserve and jam fresh produce most years.  Certainly modern jobs demand more of our time than ever before but, I do not think it is the demands of work that is to blame, I think it is the demands of our leisure time that is to blame; time spent in front of televisions, gaming consoles and computers.  I think if my mother and grandmother were given a choice between their hobby or today's hobbies they would still find more satisfaction in cooking and preserving - though I think both would be naturals at Grand Theft Auto.

And those additional hours at work have also provided us additional money in our pockets and this has eased the need for preserving.  Why do the work if E.D. Smith and the Smuckers have already done it for you, not to mention the Bicks, the Heinzs and the Aylmers?  In my grandmother's case preserving was a necessity as my grandfather's income, as good as it was, was the only income and to raise 10 children on that required a full time home economist.  My mother and father both worked but I still remember lean times and the supplementation of canned and preserved foods helped stretch the family budget for some of life's "luxuries".

But, just like the food we ate at various holidays, the choices of food for summer picnics at Highland Creek with my uncle doing the barbecuing, the places we shopped for the foods we ate, or even the passing on the fine art of the half clapper top cheddar, canning and preserving were a part of a shared culture that I bet most who grew up in Canada, from Newfoundland to Victoria, can identify with.  It was a learned craft that was passed down and shared so that each generation could have a connection to the previous and succeeding. That is why it is sad to see only a handful of first or second generation Italian-Canadians continuing the yearly tradition.  I wish I had a house with a dark, cool cellar and a kitchen with the space to do the canning to resurrect the tomato chili of my mother and grandmother. Or at the very least, friends who had those things along with a generous nature (hint hint).

If this inspires you to learn more about canning and preserving may I suggest this link.

Tuesday, August 30, 2011

30 Minute Meals

I am not a fan of Rachel Ray, I think I made that clear.  Her show, 30 Minute Meals, is an exercise in the ridiculous.  I can't stand the show or her.  I am, however, a fan of Jamie Oliver for several reasons.  And now, if you need ideas for meals in 30 minutes or less, Food Network Canada has Jamie's Meals in Minutes.

This show has everything I like in a show about food, in that it IS a show about food.  It is not just a recipe show, but a how-to show featuring food.  Oliver's unique presentation style is also fun to watch.  You will also find some new ingredients along with the information needed to cook with them.  His food is what every family should try to cook for their family: simple, flavourful and attainable.

The Food Network needs more shows like this, perhaps the producer could be recruited to develop Canadian shows for the network.

Monday, August 29, 2011

Planting A Pineapple

A little how-to on Planting A Pineapple. I live in an apartment with little sun and even less room, so if someone actually tries this let me know if it works.

Finding the Disappeared | Human Rights Now - Amnesty International USA Blog

Tomorrow is International Day of the Disappeared and I will not be posting anything on this blog as I will be busy writing to the governments listed in the post Finding the Disappeared | Human Rights Now - Amnesty International USA Blog. I urge everyone to do the same. The very basic of human rights is the freedom to express a dissenting opinion, in fact, it is what sets us apart from other species and has allowed us to achieve so much in science, art, literature and politics. This right is denied many in this world and their loved ones are denied the basic right of knowing their whereabouts or even their fate. Please, if you can afford some time, consider participating in this action to help secure the safety of the many who have lost a voice.

The Brewery Market

Just as farmers' markets have become a great way to discover new trends in food The Brewery Market plans to be the best way to discover what's new in Ontario brewing.  This sounds like a great way to find a new favourite brew and enjoy some excellent pizza in the process.  Hope they expand the idea to surrounding areas.

Sunday, August 28, 2011

Four New Toronto Breweries Launching Soon « Canadian Beer News

One of my other loves, besides wine and food, that I have not blogged about is, BEER! I loves me the malty beverage. When asked what my favourite brew is my standard answer is, the one I haven't tried yet. Well, looks like I have plenty of new favourites coming shortly, Four New Toronto Breweries Launching Soon « Canadian Beer News. I will try to get to all of these new brews when they come on line and report my findings to all of you. It's a tough job, but someone's gotta do it!

Must be Sunday


Chardonnay Wine Tasting

I went to a 21st birthday party last night.  It was an elegant affair with the gentlemen in dinner jackets and black ties and the women in formal gowns.  A catered affair, with the finest of delicacies from around the culinary world.  Haute cuisine served on the most delicate china eaten with expensive silverware....pfft.  Yeah, right.  Suffice to say, it was a nice evening but far from formal (I'm looking at you Iain).  So to me, it seemed the perfect environment for a Chardonnay tasting.  Especially when one of the entrants has a label meant to resemble a tattoo.

Let's talk a little about Chardonnay.  If Pinot Noir can be said to reflect the talents of the wine maker, then Chardonnay can be said to reflect the talents of the grape growers as well as the terroir (the characteristics of the land the grapes are grown in, expressed in the taste).  But, this grape variety has a very checkered pedigree.  Many nations have taken credit for the origin of this grape and it was only due to recent DNA testing that the grape was found, probably, to be a mix of Pinot and Gouais Blanc.  The Chardonnay grape is - how should I put this - the slut of the grape world.  This grape takes to almost any soil and a wide variety of climates.  It has also been adaptable to cross breeding and is one of the most widely cloned and mutated varieties.  Chardonnay has a reputation of going with most foods, especially with the wide range of styles, there is probably a bottle that goes with everything.  As a result, and as any high school aged boy could predict, Chardonnay has become the most popular white wine grape in the world.  For a quick lesson in Chardonnay there is a pretty good Wikipedia article.

Once again, the rules were similar: all wines selected were under $20; the tasting was blind and there was an Ontario VQA entrant up against two nations known for their Chardonnay; and tasters were asked to rank the wines favourite to least 1-3 with a possible 33 first place points.  The one difference this time around was I asked the tasters to guess the origin of the wine.  We also had 11 tasters this time, so I think it gives a better representation of the tastes of my friends.  A note on the selections: a white Burgundy or Chablis grand cru would obviously be a stunning example along with the very best of California Chardonnays and Australians.  Les Clos Jordanne from Ontario could stand up- and, in fact has- to these higher examples.  But, the idea is to find good wines that fall in the < $20 category.  If you have never had, in your opinion, a good Chardonnay, may I suggest you bust the bank and try a Chablis, ask the clerk to help you out and you might find a decent one for under $30cad.

So now the line-up:

From France, Laurent Miquel "Pere et Fils" Chardonnay non vintage @$12.
From the USA Rutherford Wine Co. Gold Ring Organic 2009  @$16.95
From Canada Indelible Wines Vintage Ink Chardonnay 2010  @$16.95 (A note to last night's tasters. I kept saying this was from 13th St.  That is because I am an idiot.  A look at the label would have let you know that.)

The results:

Hide your eyes if you are a fan of California organic wines. The overwhelming favourite with 29 points and 8 of 11 first place votes was Indelible Wines Vintage Ink.  Second place with 24 points and 2 first place votes was the French Laurent Miquel Pere et Fils and in third with 13 points and no first place votes was the Gold Ring Organic from California.

None of the wines were considered undrinkable and, in fact, the Chardonnay drinkers in the crowd liked all three.  The winner was described as more full bodied and creamier.  Most people thought that the Canadian wine was from France while most thought the French wine was from the US.  Two people guessed all three correctly.  For those of you who were there A was Canadian, B was Californian and C was French.  The wines we tasted were emblematic of the Chardonnay style in that each had a different style and ranged from the mineral to the creamy to the fruity.  This time, more than last, the tasters were quite surprised by their choice.  I will be adding the winner to my list of wines in the column to the right and look forward to many pleasurable evenings with this versatile, popular and easy going wine, which could be just as at home at casual gatherings and formal affairs.

Saturday, August 27, 2011

Best Time to Try Ontario Wines

Starting in September, the LCBO has a a number of promotions of Ontario wines which will make it the best time to give some a try if you haven't already.  One of the aims of this blog is to demonstrate that Ontario wines are every bit as worthy of a place in your cellar and on your table as any other region.  The more you learn about Ontario wines the more you will realize we have some of the best people in the industry working here.  From sparklings, to Chardonnays, to Pinot Noir Ontario wine is holding its own in international competitions and gaining a reputation with experts everywhere.  And if you are simply looking for a cheap, drinkable wine, Ontario's selections are also amongst the best and most affordable.  So cheers!

The Vintages Taste Ontario walk-around tasting is coming to Toronto's Ritz Carlton  On Monday, September 19, 2011.  For $55 dollars you can taste a wide variety of the best Ontario has to offer in the world of wine.

Also, September 11- October 8 is the goLocal Challenge where restaurants will feature meals made of local ingredients paired with local Ontario wines.  Visit www.lcbogolocal.com for more details.  In the Markham/Unionville area the Bluestone Bistro is the only participating restaurant other than Casey's.

And last, the LCBO will be featuring Ontario wines prominently in Vintages locations starting September 10th.


Thursday, August 25, 2011

Bourdain Versus Deen Pt II

Originally, Anthony Bourdain gave his thoughts on some of the Food Network's "talent".  As you recall, I suggested that he didn't go far enough.  Then the New York Times' Frank Bruni came to Deen's defence by suggesting that Bourdain was a culinary elitest (sorry, link may require registration).  Then Rebecca Marx came to the aid of Anthony Bourdain.    So the battle rages on.  

But, the point isn't, from my standpoint anyway, that there is anything wrong with fried chicken or macaroni and cheese or even butter or lard.  My problem with Paula Deen and certain others on the food network is that they elevate fat, sugar, butter and lard to iconic status and their shows are more about how great it is to cook big, fatty meals like they remember from their childhood.  But, they never talk about cooking technique, food quality, importance of ingredients or, most importantly, moderation.  

And look, I don't see eye to eye on everything that Bourdain says.  He has some of his own simple minded thoughts especially on the subject of vegetarianism.  Bourdain has travelled extensively and eaten food all over the globe.  His preference is always the food of the peasants, but that doesn't suggest that it is unhealthy or unpalatable.  Far from it.  And I agree.  His show talks about the culture that lead those peasants to seek out the ingredients they use and how the techniques evolved because of the ingredients and the availability of materials and fuels.  All the influences of community, locale and mores are examined in each dish that he eats and an attempt is made to understand that culture's food.  As he said in a recent tweet when someone suggested he be banned from the south:

Which South? The one with a glorious tradition of food? Or the TV version?

LCBO Vintages Clearance Picks

As you may have inferred by my choices in wine, I don't like to pay much more than $20 for a bottle of wine.  But, occasionally it is nice to spoil oneself.  If there is a good enough deal, I would even spend up to $80.  I have been going through the LCBO Vintages Clearance list and have found some very good deals.  Here are my picks for best value.

563395 Chateau Rieussec 2006  was $52 is now $39 and is probably the most underrated wine of the list. (I've tried it, it's great)

For the big spenders this wine has a 94-96 rating from Robert Parker:
565630  Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 2006  was $189 is now $142.95

If you want an idea of the vintage (2006) of Bordeaux without spending big money:
198978  Chateau Moulinat  2006  was $22.95 is now $18.95

57737  Spy Valley Chardonnay 2008 from New Zealand was $16.30 now $12.95

199943  Yealands Estate Pinot Noir 2008 also from New Zealand was $20.95 now $16.95 and when it was released the LCBO panel raved about it.  (I tried it, and liked it)

178814  Legends Estate Riesling Reserve 2003 from Ontario was $23.75  now 15.95 If you have never tried a good riesling from Ontario now is a good time to try one.

687699  NK'MIP Cellars Chardonnay  2007  from British Columbia  was  $23.95  now $17.95

Wednesday, August 24, 2011

Sour on Sugar?

I am a sugar junkie and have always been one.  I ate sugar right out of the bowl when my parents weren't  looking.  I would sell my soul for a bag of wine gums or liquorice all sorts.  I feel I need to admit this before commenting on this item. I am also overweight and have struggled with my weight most of my adult life, though I was average weight and in good shape during childhood and adolescence.  It was not till my late twenties and early thirties that I began to add weight, lose it, add again, rinse and repeat.  So what was different when I was younger?  Probably the fact that I played a lot of sports, marched in drum corps and had several other activities to keep me busy.  In addition, we were not permitted to sit around the house watching tv and I can still hear my parents telling us to go out and play and don't come in until you're called. We were not part of a digital generation with video games and computers, there was no virtual reality, just reality which required more calories to negotiate.

There are, undoubtedly, several health risks to over consumption of sugar.  If we study the consumption of sugar, especially high fructose sugar, since the 60's we might actually find a correlation between sugar and obesity rates.  We might also find a correlation between space flight and obesity, which have also been on a corresponding increase.  But while that example is pretty silly, the idea that our fast food culture has also been on the rise in a corresponding fashion is not so silly.  Neither is it silly to look at the cost of food to the average household over that same time and the declining activity rates amongst youth.  There has never been more food more available at a lower cost any other time in human history.  And not just sugar.

What has been proven about weight gain is this, calories consumeed and not burned equate to weight gain. This is not simply a correlation, but a causation.  If you consume 2500 calories per day and use 2000 calories per day you will gain about a pound a week.  If you consume 2000 calories per day and burn 2500 you will lose about a pound a week.  This is only modified by variations in metabolism and genetic disposition to fat storage.  I think we all have a friend we can think of who can eat anything they want and still not gain weight.  I work with someone like that and it is frustrating to watch him eat bacon and eggs every day for breakfast and still fit into his high school clothes.  But is this evidence that a high fat diet is the best for losing weight?  Doubtful.

I am not a doctor, nor have I played one on tv, though I do play doctor and have dressed as a nurse on halloween (I am sure it was just a phase) but my understanding is that the human brain is a glutton for sugar.  I also understood that muscles use sugar, in the form of glucose, as energy.  So right off the top of my head, with no expertise in biology, I can think of two bodily functions that make use of sugar.  Does this mean the body requires corn syrup, honey or beet sugar?  No, it can extract the sugars from vegetables, fruit, grains, meats and even milk. So you can make the claim that the human body doesn't require any given single food item.  But, a little bit of sugar, regardless of the source, is not responsible for the obesity we see in the west today and, in the case of a diabetic with low blood sugar, it can actually be a good thing.  Imagine a diabetic kid not getting a candy bar fix because he can't produce i.d.

If one wants to find a true culprit in the obesity epidemic one only needs to look at the eating habits of the typical fast food chain.  The total calories of a typical fast food chain meal are close to the 2000 calorie limit specified for adult males, and the kids happy meal is not much better.  But even if you stay home and cook for yourself there is a danger of over consumption.  Our supermarkets are stacked with a greater variety and quantity of food than ever before at prices that are lower than ever.  And, even if you think you have healthy eating down and are only a few calories over, there are the recent studies which show that there is a genetic predisposition to the way we store and process fat that may be exerting evolutionary pressure on modern humans.

The real cause of the obesity epidemic, if one exists, is more complicated than one food groups reaction on the human body.  It is more likely that our high calorie, high fat diet combined with our sedentary life style exacerbated by our genetic coding is more the cause.  It is not just the consumption of sugar, but the over consumption of everything.  If you want to improve people's health we should be educating them on the benefits of moderation and the real cost of food. Never mind the nutritionists - which are unregulated in most jurisdictions, by the way - instead see the services of a board certified and licensed dietitian.  A dietitian will teach you about the benefits of moderation and variety in your diet; they will teach you how to track and control your consumption and give you hints to limit your total calorie intake; they will explain the benefits of being physically active; and they are well versed in the analysis of scientific studies and can explain the difference between correlation and causation.  I know this because I have been to a dietitian for my own diet issues, and while I am not very good with following advice, I know that their approach to eating sensibly is backed up by study after study and not based on some hypothetical idea drawn from a series of correlations. Will a dietitian tell you to avoid processed sugar? Yes.  And, they will tell you to avoid bread, alcohol, meat proteins as a main dish, high fat dairy products and fun.  But the reason to avoid these products is not because in and of themselves any one product causes obesity, but because the best way to fill your stomach and keep it feeling full is nutritionally dense, low calorie, high fibre food.  They will also introduce you to Canada's Food Guide, a good source for anyone trying to find a healthy way to lose weight.

There are no easy ways to losing weight.  You have to make sensible decisions about the foods you put in your mouth and you need to make sensible decisions about being more active.  Having an understanding of what a typical 300 calorie meal looks like might help, too.  Now, get out side and play.

Monday, August 22, 2011

What Kids Around the World Eat at School

A photo essay from Today I Learned, about what kid eat at school around the globe.  It is easy to see the influence of culture on food and nutrition.  Those nations that have the oldest cultures seem to have the nicest foods, save for the very poorest nations.  How much should be spent, in time and money, on school food?  Does finer cuisine necessarily translate to higher grades?  Would love to here from others on this.

Stop it I'm Blushing

Rosés have a bad reputation, one that is undeserved.  Most people would associate these wines with poorly made, intensely sweet and fruity wines lacking depth and nuance. Yet I am unsure why, perhaps something to do with some poorly made Mateus or misconception about the process, many believe it involves mixing red and white grapes prior to pressing, or mixing red and white wine prior to bottling.  But, in reality, mixing of white and red, while one method, is very rare and frowned upon by quality winemakers.  Instead, rosés gain their blush from the same method reds receive their deep colours, just in a less intense manner.  Contact with grape skins and stems imparts the colour, tannins and phenols to red wine.  A rosé  is made by limiting this contact to no more than a few days early in the process.  After pressing, the juices are allowed to remain in contact with the skins for only a short time and then one of two things happen: either the entire volume of juice is extracted and placed in vats for fermentation or only a portion of the juice is extracted, more for the purpose of intensifying the tannins in the remainder of the volume.  This latter method is known as saignée.

Whether the entire volume or just a portion of the juice is extracted the rest of the process is the same as making white or red wines.  Rosés tend to have some of the same characteristics as good red wines in the nose and on the palate with less of the complexities that come from tannins and phenols.  This makes them dry, fruity, acidic and what people would call lighter or brighter in flavour.  Oak barrels may or may not be used in the aging of the wine.  Historically, rosés came from the grape varieties that make for good light to medium bodied reds, such as Gamay, Corvina, Dolcetto and Beaujolais.  But recently there has been a trend to the heavier varieties like Syrah and Granache and even Merlot.

Rosé sales in France have now exceeded sales of white wine.  This, perhaps more than any other argument, speaks loudly to the quality of rosé production around the globe.  Rosé's popularity may also be gaining in conjunction with the growth in popularity of grilling and barbecuing.  These wines are perfect for when you are enjoying a variety of dishes where exact matching is impossible without having several bottles on hand.  Perfect for picnics, parties and barbeques, rosés will not soon lose their reputation as the wine of choice for summer patios.

Now on to my picks:  as you recall I picked two of the Vintages selection from LCBO.  The first was L'Amphore de Provence 2010 from Provence, France $13.95cad.  The second was Chateau De Fontelles Tenue de Soirée Rosé 2010 from Midi, France $13.95cad.  Both wines were selected because they were under $15cad and received excellent scores in the Vintages catalogue.

The tasting was conducted at my friend BW's house and I cooked a barbeque lemon-herbed chicken with roasted golden beets, grilled summer squash and a salad of wild arugula and sorrel.  Both wines held up nicely to the chicken and the Provence selection was excellent with the salad, cutting the acidity of the dressing nicely.  The Midi wine was by far the more substantial of the two, having been derived from a syrah and granache mix, this went extremely well with the chicken.  The Fontelles was also much darker in colour.  We concluded that the Fontelles would be the wine of choice if you tended to lean toward a preference for red wines, while the L'Amphore would be more suited to people who preferred a white.  Both wines offered a depth not typical to white wines and without the tannins and phenols of red.  If you were only to choose one wine, and at $13.95 the price is hardly prohibitive, I would lean toward the Fontelles.

Just a personal note about the food.  I have said for some time that, when it comes to bbq, BW easily holds her own with anyone.  She has, for as long as I recall, followed religiously the instructions in the Weber bbq guide that came with her Weber grill.  The Chicken was amazing.  The skin was exceptionally crispy and the meat was tender and succulent.  The key to good grilling is to have faith and allow the grill to work by leaving the lid alone. If you haven't a guide that came with your Weber grill, then definitely click on the Amazon link and get the Weber guide with recipes.  You won't regret.



Sunday, August 21, 2011

Bourdain Has No Reservations About Speaking His Mind

I for one agree with Anthony Bourdain's Celebrity Chef Smackdown!  but I also think  he does not go far enough.  When the food network first premiered there were a number of excellent shows that taught first and entertained second.  They were hosted by accomplished chefs, sommeliers and food critics.  Some even featured butchers, fish mongers and grocers even farmers explaining the latest trends in food and eating.  There were shows about wine, vegetarianism, home economics and food news.  I seldom changed the channel.  But, the last 8 years or so has seen the network devolve into a reality based network where we are supposed to believe that the overly scripted confrontations are typical "real life dramas" (see Top Chef) and that Rachel Ray and Paula Deen are the custodians of American cuisine.  Pffft!

If you want an idea of the idiocy that has become the Food Network and Rachel Ray look no further than here (I urge you to read the comments, they are by far the most entertainment the Food Network has provided in a long time).  But, in the spirit of the best Iron Chef battle, I give you a Paula Deen recipe that rivals Ray's.  Has cooking in North America sunk to the level that the network for food has to post recipes for cooking slices of bacon and warming peas?!  But what Bourdain misses in his smackdown was any mention of what is probably the worst show on Food Network, Outrageous Food.  This show is nothing more than a celebration of the worst aspects of American consumerism.  This homage to gluttony and obesity looks at the food trend of over indulgence and celebrates the act of culinary masturbation.

There is nothing positive to be taken away from Outrageous Food in terms of food culture, it is strictly the celebration of a pleasurable act that tv censors will not cut.  In fact, all of the shows on Food Network are a microcosm of America's pornographic love affair with food.  America, through the Food Network, have simply replaced gluttony for lust in their entertainment - I guess explaining to their kids why a grown man is trying to stuff a 21/2 pound burrito into his stomach is less awkward than explaining the act of making love.

If you think the comparison to pornography is hyperbole I suggest you watch this.  Bourdain is a genius when he is holding up a mirror to his own trade.  He is right, of  course, producers and directors know exactly what buttons to press when it comes to filming and presenting shows about food, his show included.  Let me say,  there is nothing wrong in experiencing pleasure during this life - it is after all a short one and you only go around once, but I really don't need to see others indulging.  And when you consider the consequences of the ever rising costs of food around the globe does it seem justified to be celebrating the availability of food we in the west experience today? Shouldn't some sort of moderation be practiced?  Or, do we really need shows that portray the extravagant every week?  In my view, if food is sex, I would prefer the shows that were sex education rather than simple porn.

I will grant you that Bourdain himself seems like a walking contradiction, but at least he admits he is and he has never claimed to be a great chef.  He knows he is playing a game that so far he is winning at and is going to run the table for what it is worth.  But from his honest candour has come some of the best insights into the culinary world and his No Reservations show has opened our eyes in the west to how  poor people are able to make the greatest of feasts out of the simplest ingredients in life.  In My Last Supper: 50 Great Chefs and Their Final Meals, Bourdain points out the irony that the more accomplished a chef is at elevating cuisine the more they personally long for the simpler foods of their childhood.

Too many of the hosts on Food Network seem to think that elevating cuisine is adding gourmet ingredients to simple meals.  Good shows about food are not about following a recipe or hiding bad food under gourmet ingredients or 5 pounds of butter and lard, they are about respecting the simple ingredients and turning them into something that says something about yourself and the culture you were raised in. If cooking is supposed to say something about culture then the Food Network is saying" we have none".





Saturday, August 20, 2011

Two New Items

Over to  your right I have added two new lists to the blog.  These lists will build over time as I conduct tastings of wine and pantry items.  I have started with the winner of the Pinot Noir tasting.  Hopefully friends and family will help me create a collection of wines, oils, vinegars etc. that will be the envy of the intertubes.

Edit: The list for Pantry Items won't be visible until I actually add the first item.  You can stop looking for it now.


Funnies

I am working on a couple of long posts so in the mean time here is something to distract you, from Cyanide and Happiness.







Friday, August 19, 2011

Cocktail Hour!

Well, another week in the books and it will soon be cocktail hour followed by sushi.  I will probably consume a small nation's worth of draught but am thinking this drink looks promising, also.  Maybe I'll tell Lena about it, got the right name anyway.

Southside Fizz Recipe - Imbibe Magazine

Cheers!

Thursday, August 18, 2011

Have A Drink On Me – AC/DC Launch Own Wine Label | WhatCulture!

Have A Drink On Me – AC/DC Launch Own Wine Label | WhatCulture!

Hope the wine is better than the music.

How Much is Too Much

I came across this interesting graphic earlier in the summer.  With the news out of Somalia, it seems more relevant now.  what the average family spends on food every week : theCHIVE

Let Them Eat Cake, But Only If It's Perfect

Ok, here is an example of the hubris I think is running rampant in the food industry.  It's your cake, and although you might not be able to have it and eat it too, you certainly can do whatever the hell you want with it.  It's just fucking cake!  Who cares if someone made it to look like their pet or if the colours are too bright.  And, I want as much fucking frosting as physics will allow stacked on mine, because quite frankly, cake is shit without it.

I went to the link because I thought it was going to be something informative about how to best mix the batter, or the best pans, or something useful.  Instead, some narcissistic baker is telling people he doesn't like the latest trends.  And, "oh how dare you even consider just using up ingredients in your cupboard." Really, people should just throw stuff out and run out and buy fresh ingredients every time they have a sugar craving?  Oh, that's right, everyone has money to piss away like the owner of a famous bakery.

Let me help you with one other thing Matt, a little food colouring won't kill you.

Sorry about that rant, don't know what came over me. 

Wednesday, August 17, 2011

Fast Food Restaurant Review Federick Hakka Cuisine



I heard about this restaurant from a friend at work and decided to give it a try this evening.  Federick's is located at the New Delhi plaza across from Costco on Markham Rd. just south of 14th Ave.   This is their second restaurant, the original being in the Ellesmere and Bellamy Roads area.  Hakka cuisine, as far as I know, is a combination of Indian ingredients and Chinese techniques.  It involves heat, heat and more heat.  But if you don't like hot food don't let this put you off, there are several mild dishes available and the menu seems to be designed with Anglo Canadian tastes in mind. 

Now I like heat, even if it does appear that I am suffering.  But my ability to endure is determined by how much of the flavours of the food come through.  If a dish has dozens of ingredients and all I can detect is heat I will be disappointed.  If, however, a dish has a balance of heat, sweet, sour and salty I will be in heaven.  Federick's met this balance nicely. 

I ordered the Pakora Chicken, Fried Dumplings and Hot and Sour Soup from a very cheerful cashier who was also able to give me an acceptable definition of Hakka cuisine and guided me through the menu options.  I was a little put off by the fact that they only accepted debit cards at $15 and over and Visa at $25 and over.  Luckily I had cash, though my bill did come to $15.  

The portions were generous, as you can see in the picture.  Don't forget to ask for napkins and utensils if you need them as they were not included.  

I had ordered the dumplings fried which I assumed meant deep fried.  I shouldn't assume, they weren't.  They also were not memorable, just as you would get at any decent Chinese restaurant. The hot and sour soup was well balanced with sour, salty and hot flavours.  It brought on a nice sweat without being over bearing.  It was thick with ingredients.  Quite substantial, I only had about a third. The Chicken Pakora came with two dipping sauces, both hot.  There was a fiery red sauce and a sour green chili sauce which was a little more muted.  The deep fried chunks of chicken were well seasoned and the batter was of the crunchier variety as opposed to the lighter batters of chicken balls.  The Pakoras were similar in texture to a hush puppy on the outside with chunks of dark chicken meat on the inside.  This made them more moist and luscious than standard chinese chicken balls and they were just as good without the dipping sauces.  

Federick's does have takeout and dine-in options but does not currently offer delivery.  Prices are competitive with other Chinese food options, but be prepared not to finish.  Almost everyone I saw dining in took leftovers to go.  

As far as an accompanying beverage, my pick with spicy Indo meals, when dining by myself is always MILK.  Yes milk.  It has the ability to instantly extinguish the harshest fires and stays out of the way of the food.  If you must have alcohol (and Federick's is licensed) I would suggest a cooler style drink such as Palm Bay.  Beer is an acceptable drink and Pinot Noir if you simply must have wine.  Or try a rice wine.  

Street Eats

Toronto's latest attempt to improve the quality and variety of quick foods from street vendors looks promising.  What do you think?  Would you be tempted to check these vendors out?  Or maybe you have already.  Leave a comment.

The Live Local Marketplace at Bathurst and Dundas (from thestar.ca)



My Mantra

A picture that explains exactly the purpose of this blog

Imgur

Monday, August 15, 2011

Vintages Release August 20th

I have two picks for this weekend that I will be trying from the LCBO Vintages release for Aug. 20th.  At this time of year we are getting more of the spontaneous backyard parties and BBQ's and it is always nice to have something a little crisper and slightly dry with plenty of fruit to have as a sipping wine pre dinner. I have chosen two rosés (yes, I said rosés) from Languedoc in Southern France.

CHÂTEAU DE FONTENELLES TENUE DE SOIRÉE ROSÉ DE SYRAH CORBIÈRES 2010
VINTAGES 225011 | 750 mL bottle

Price: $ 13.95
Wine, Rosé Wine
12.5% Alcohol/Vol.

Sugar Content : D

Made in: Midi, France
By: Avo Export

Release Date: Aug 20, 2011 



L'AMPHORE DE PROVENCE ROSÉ 2010
VINTAGES 228940 | 750 mL bottle

Price: $ 13.95
Wine, Rosé Wine
13.0% Alcohol/Vol.

Sugar Content : D

Made in: Provence, France
By: Gilardi S.A.

Release Date: Aug 20, 2011 



I will let you know how I like them once I try them.

I Have No Beef With Vegetarians

I eat meat.  In fact, people who know my food preferences will tell you I prefer fatty meats.  You know that outer edge of fat that surrounds one edge of a really good striploin steak? Yeah, the bit most people cut off. I LLLLLLLLOOOOVVVEEE IT!  But, it is not just about the flavour.  My choice to consume meat has as much to do with health, as I believe it is easier to get all your essential amino acids and B12 from meat than from a vegetarian diet.

Don't get me wrong.  I love vegetables as well and can never get enough of the fruit salad at Village Grocer - a gourmet grocery store near my home.  I have several recipes for vegan dishes that I make for myself solely because they are good.  And, I believe a well balanced diet includes a variety of foods in moderation, including vegetables, legumes and grains.  Aboriginals in South and North America survived for years on a diet of the three sisters: corn, beans and squash.  They would also include potatoes and tomatoes in season and what little meat they caught.  But, the three sisters were their staples year round.

But a trend amongst meat eating chefs has me a little confused.  Not too long ago there was a story trending on Twitter about a chef in Colorado bragging about serving gluten foods to people with gluten intolerance; we are all aware by now of Gordon Ramsay's battle with Paul McCartney over Ramsay's positon on vegetarians; and not too long ago there was a survey of chefs that brought to light several practices that seem to me unethical.  I feel that this antagonism amongst chefs toward groups that do not wish to turn their digestive tracts over to them demonstrates nothing more than the inability of those chefs to be creative.  You have spent years in culinary school and all that you got out of it was when in doubt add more animal fat?  You should really seek a refund.  The machismo of a chef who thinks that he has somehow attained the level of Grand Master because he pulled one over on an unsuspecting diner who had entrusted their health and diet to them is contemptible.

My feeling about dietary restrictions is this: as someone who loves to cook for people a restriction is nothing more than an opportunity to try something new.  A challenge.   Anyone can learn to cook, it really isn't that hard.  And anyone can make food taste better by using the strong umami flavours of meat and meat products.  But if you are charging money for your work and calling yourself a professional than you owe it to meet the strict criteria set out by customers. This is what separates chefs from cooks.

For those who will argue that the demands of vegetarians are not feasible within the high paced confines of a professional kitchen then the answer is simple: tell them up front that you can't accomodate them and let them take their business somewhere else, no hard feelings.  There are several chefs who have positive attitudes toward vegetarian and gluten free cooking who have made the accommodation.  And some, like Michael Smith, are even married to vegetarians.

Food is nothing more than sustenance and nutrition when culture is left out and no dietary restrictions are really required to keep someone alive on a liquid chemical formula.  Science is now able to grow meat in a lab and may some day be able to remove some of the ethical reasons for being a vegetarian.  But would those products be considered cuisine?  Cooking and eating, whether at home or in a restaurant, is a communal activity.  We gain our tastes and even our manners through a shared culture.  To disrespect the culture of a vegetarian is no different than to serve pork to someone who keeps kosher.  We may not share the reasoning behind a decision to alter one's diet, but I would no more take away a persons right to not eat something than I would want them to take away my right to the occasional (ok somewhat too frequent) hot dog fix. To me vegetarian cuisine can be as exciting to cook as Thai, Italian or French.  And maybe, occasionally, it wouldn't hurt me to try.

Sunday, August 14, 2011

So You Think You Know Wine

Here is a video indicative of how our tasting went last night

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MGNMpqfwhUk&feature=player_embedded

Pinot Noir Tasting

Last evening I hijacked a friends dinner party to conduct a wine tasting for Pinot Noir.  I brought the wine, so I don't think she had too much of  a problem with it.  The purpose for the dinner was because we were all hungry and my friend hates being alone.  Perfect reasons for a dinner party.  The menu consisted of grilled leg of lamb, mashed potatoes, green beans and a heirloom tomato salad.  We also enjoyed bacon wrapped water chestnuts, oysters and various crackers and dips.  The food was excellent.

The setting was even nicer.  This friend's home is situated on a large property backing onto a ravine and graveyard so perfect for entertaining.  We actually spend a lot of time at her house and enjoy the yard almost as much as the mosquitos do.  There is a hot tub, a fire pit and ample seating.  The music is...well...eclectic, especially when the remote is in the hands of the hostess: tastes and volume may change with amounts consumed.

The tasting panel consisted of a group of good friends who spend a lot of time together and enjoy each others company.  Some reports peg the average consumption of wine at 1/2 a bottle per week. HA! Amateurs!  Members of this panel do that before the apps hit the table.  This panel is nothing if not experienced in drinking mass quantities.  Their level of appreciation, on the other hand, varies.  Most were also not overly familiar with wine terminology (not a bad thing) and few drink Pinot Noir on a regular basis. In fact, this group has their favourite, usually affordable, standard wine that they drink with everything without much thought to food pairings.  Basically, average drinkers who consume for the sake of the buzz but want to learn more.

Ok, The Line Up:

A BY ACACIA PINOT NOIR 2009
VINTAGES 118927 | 750 mL bottle

Price: $ 16.95
Wine, Red Wine
13.8% Alcohol/Vol.

Sugar Content : XD

Made in: California, USA
By: Diageo Canada Inc

Release Date: Jan 8, 2011 



WAYNE GRETZKY NO. 99 ESTATE SERIES PINOT NOIR 2007
VINTAGES 129056 | 750 mL bottle

Price: $ 18.95
Wine, Red Wine
12.5% Alcohol/Vol.

Sugar Content : XD
This is a VQA wine

Made in: Ontario, Canada
By: No. 99 Wayne Gretzky Estates

Release Date: Aug 6, 2011 



KIM CRAWFORD PINOT NOIR (V)
VINTAGES 626390 | 750 mL bottle

Price: $ 19.95

Limited Time Offer
Was: $ 19.95
Now: $ 19.95
Save: $ 1.00                  Apparently math is not a core competency at LCBO
Until Sep 11, 2011

Other Limited Time Offers

Wine, Red Wine
13.5% Alcohol/Vol.

Sugar Content : D

Made in: Region Not Specified, New Zealand
By: Constellation Wines Nz

Release Date: N/A     




VINCENT MORIN LACOMBE PINOT NOIR BOURGOGNE 
VINTAGES 208496 | 750 mL bottle 

Price: $ 16.95 
Wine, Red Wine
12.5% Alcohol/Vol.


Made in: Burgundy, France
By: Vdvf

Release Date: N/A 

All of the wines were under $20 cad and were selected as an affordable example of an entry level Pinot Noir typical to the region.  Pinot Noir is known for its difficulty to get right and is indicative of a winemakers skills.  Pinots should be a well balanced blend of sweetness, acidity and tannins.  They should have hints of dark red tree fruit such as cherrys and plums as well as pepper and tobacco.  Served with the wines were a strong salami and a mix of mushrooms with herbs, ginger, garlic and shallots on bread.  Pinots are an excellent pairing with lean proteins, Asian and moderately spicy food and herbal foods.  Each wine was served in a fresh, clean glass and the tasting was blind.

Each panelist was asked to rate the wines in order of favourite to least favourite 1 - 4.  Each wine scored 4 points for each first place vote, 3 for second, 2 for third and 1 point for fourth.  They also left comments on the cards with what they liked and disliked.

The consensus choice with 4 of a possible 6 first place votes and a total of 21 of 24 points was the French representative.  Generally the comments were "well balanced" "peppery" "less harsh"

The second place wine was Canada's (yeah!).  Receiving 15 of 24 points, 1 first place vote and 3 seconds. Two people, however, rated it least favourite. "Dry" "peppery" "less harsh" were the typical comments.

Third was the New Zealand wine which I was told was the LCBO's number one selling Pinot Noir.  The panel did not agree with only one person rating it their favourite and one second place.  This wine scored a total of 14 out of 24 so only slightly lower than the Canadian.  The panel found this wine lighter in colour and body than the others and too unbalanced for their palates.

Fourth was the American wine with no first place votes, 1 second place and the most fourth place votes than any other wine.  It scored ten of a possible 24 points.  Tasters found it too heavy on tannins and much too dry.  They struggled finding the fruit in this wine.  (on a personal note: I think this wine would do best with a roast chicken or turkey than the others but is not a casual wine which may explain its rating with this panel)

Let me say that this is not intended to suggest that one wine is better than any other (though hard to argue against any good French wine) but is meant to demonstrate the palate diversity of average drinkers and to, perhaps, breakdown some of the snobbery surrounding Ontario wines.  I think the panel would be much more inclined to try a VQA wine.  I think they were surprised and delighted with their choice.  All 4 wines are very good and I would have no problem recommending them.  Remember, a recommendation is not a guarantee of enjoyment. 
                             

In The Beginning

This is my brand new spiffy blog.  Here I will be posting my thoughts on all things having to do with food, drink, eating and drinking. There will be posts on the growing, harvesting, delivery, preparing and consuming of food and drink as well as the politics of today's food culture.

I have had a fifty year love affair with all things gourmand and have been cooking since I was 10 years old. I love good "food" shows - shows about food and cooking, not the recipe shows seen on Food Network.  I was fascinated by the antics of The Galloping Gourmet and Julia Child when I was a kid.  And even now I spend my Saturday afternoons glued to the TV tuned to PBS.  I read cookbooks like they are novels and have bookshelves full of books on cuisine, ingredients, techniques and sourcing.  But when it comes to a style of my own I am afraid I am at a loss to define one.  Food to me is the ultimate personal experience and taste the most subjective of opinion.  As much as I enjoy my own food, I also enjoy the food prepared for me by others.  I feel that when we cook and serve our families and friends it says much about how we feel about them and ourselves.  While time doesn't always allow for gourmet cuisine even a quick hotdog before rushing the kids to hockey can say something about our approach to food and feeding.  At times food can be an expression of our creativity, our passions and our emotions but, when it is all said and done, it needs to nourish and sustain.  This, I think, is where western society struggles with its relationship with food.

I will try to demystify the culinary arts and cut through the jargon of preparing and consuming food and drink.  One way is to hold regular tastings with my friends - a wide variety of individuals with varying degrees of expertise with all things culinary.  I want to have a monthly wine tasting featuring decent affordable examples of varieties from around the world with at least one Canadian example included.  I will then post the results here, which I think will surprise people.  I will look for new products to comment on.  I will give opinion on food trends, food supply and food related news.  I hope that anyone reading this blog will leave a comment letting me know what they think and correcting me when they see the need so that together we may grow in our knowledge.  

"May your glass always be filled with warm memories and your mouth with the taste of a life well lived"