The Future of Food - The Case For Science

It's fifty years into the future and and our population has passed the 9 billion mark.  Global warming has caused severe shortages of arable lands around the globe due to desertification and irrigation problems.  Growing populations and migration to the north are putting existing forests under greater strain as societies look for more land to clear for farming.  And, while the planet's land is surrounded by higher water levels, the supply of fresh water has been drastically reduced with most of it now being reserved for agricultural irrigation; in some nations, water for cleaning and bathing is unheard of.  New diseases are attacking existing crops and organic solutions are harder to find.  Oil is in short supply and must be rationed, which is easy enough as prices have made it a luxury item along with fresh fruits, vegetables and meat which are becoming scarcer due to their high irrigation demands.

But, perhaps the biggest issues facing society in fifty years will be the societal changes.  Human migration has resulted in conflicts between natives and migrants around the globe.  Food costs have skyrocketed and caused famine, rioting and civil wars.  Farms and grocery stores employ security to protect their commodities, further increasing the costs.  The world's richest nations are no longer the oil producers but, rather, the nations who can still produce food and water.

Will it really be this gloomy?  I believe it will if we don't take drastic steps to change the course we are currently on.  Organic farming, as much as I admire much of its elements, is simply not going to be able to feed more people on less land.  We have seen that in the example of Cuba.  It does not and will not provide better tasting food that is healthier.   Studies continue to demonstrate that.  And, it does not address the single most important issue facing agriculture in the next 50+ years: water.  While their practices can help preserve and even reduce water use, organic crops still need irrigating.  Add to that the required additional land simply for composting, the need for foods that can withstand long travel times (because, like it or not, locavores will become extinct or will be housing large numbers of migrants in their basements) and the constant threat of new diseases we have not even dreamed up yet and there is a recipe for catastrophe if we exclude science and engineering from the equation.

I would like to give you an example of organic farmers having to deal with threats to their very existence that could be helped by science:

Take the case of the subsistence farmers of Mizoram.  These farmers rely on their annual crop of rice, corn and wheat which in good years feeds their families and provides enough excess for sale to acquire some of the "luxuries" of life - like a roof over their heads and clothes on their backs.  For the most part, these farmers survive quite nicely as growing conditions are well suited for these crops and other grasses, such as bamboo.  But every 50 years or so and a quirk of nature occurs that, if you are unlucky enough to be farming in Mizoram or most of southeast Asia, may result in starvation for you and your family.

Before I discuss that quirk let me sing the praises of the humble bamboo plant.  Often called a super plant, there are over 1000 species of Bamboo ranging from simple ornamental to timber quality.  It is ubiquitous in southeast Asia and is used for scaffolding, housing, fuel, food and utensils.  It is a fast growing plant that was amongst the first plants found to regenerate after nuclear bombs were used.  They have a rhizome root structure which makes them ideal for quick cultivation.  And, they all fruit at exactly the same time every 48-50 years.  Even if you took a seedling to a different continent it would come to fruit at the same time as the parent plant.  A wonderful plant with innumerable uses all of which are renewable and sustainable.

The bad news, if you are a rice farmer in southeast Asia, is that the Black Rat knows all of this about the bamboo plant.  It also knows that, gram for gram, bamboo fruit provides some of the best nutritional and energy of any plant.  That is why the black rats have a breeding switch that becomes activated during the height of the bamboo flowering.  Now, this would seem not a big deal except that the qualities black rats are best known for are rapid breeding and ferocious appetites.  They can and will eat anything that grows and every fifty years that means bamboo fruit.  Normally the level of food availability keeps the rat population in check as females will breed less and even resort to eating their offspring when food supplies are low.  But the fruiting of bamboo is so great that it jumpstarts the breeding of the females who have a 21 day gestation period and a weening period of just 2 weeks.  An average female can pump out 200 offspring per year with half of them females ready to breed themselves in less than a couple of months.

Researchers have identified that the breeding cycle during the fruiting season comes in 4 pulses with the first coming at the first sign of bamboo flowers.  Each pulse denotes an additional generation of breeding females being added to the existing generation.  By the fourth pulse their numbers are astronomical and this comes when most of the fruit is already gone.  With their preferred food supply exhausted, the rats turn their voracious appetite to the wheat, corn and rice crops which have yet to ripen.  The rats can strip a field clean in less than a night, and if it is your field they strip, you can expect a lean winter. 

But, researchers have also found that when a rice, wheat or corn field is ready for harvest before that fourth pulse, the farmers can get their harvest in and the rats simply return to their cannibalistic ways.  So, what if science could engineer rice, wheat and corn plants that grew faster and were ready to harvest weeks earlier rather than synced with the bamboo fruit?  Shouldn't they, if it means staving off starvation for hundreds of thousands?  This threat is not limited to Mizoram, as the same phenomenon is present throughout Vietnam, Cambodia and most of southeast Asia.  Black rats have also been implicated in the spread of the Black Plague around the globe, so keeping their numbers in check might be beneficial to everyone. 

But, I hear you yelling at your screen right now "oh Dennis, what about frankenfoods, broccoli with eyes and tomatoes with still beating pigs' hearts?'  Let me put your addle mind at ease.  They don't and wouldn't exist!  Genetic modification is occurring at the level of DNA, which is identical in cells across species, it is not directly manipulating chromosomes for combining with another species' chromosome.  Our human superiority complex doesn't like to admit that we are no different a life form than any other life form, but we aren't.  Our DNA is exactly the same as that of a cockroach.  All that is different is how they combine to form bases and chromosomes.  When we find a cell that shows a preferred trait we can examine the DNA and identify how that DNA is expressed and use that expression in a cell of another species' chromosome to create the same trait in that species.  If we took the DNA expression for blue eyes out of a human cell and put it into a tomato cell, the tomato would not have blue eyes because tomatoes don't have eyes.  It's not in their chromosomes.  However, it might cause something else to turn blue for all I know, which would seem a pretty cool experiment from my perspective, but I digress.  Theoretically, yes, we could manipulate the DNA in just about anything to, with enough time, create a human from a tomato, but at that point it would no longer be a tomato and you probably wouldn't want to eat it.

Genetic modification is not an invention of the modern world, but has been practiced since the beginning of agriculture.  Selecting the genetic traits that we prefer has been something humans have done with vegetation as well as domesticated pets and farm animals.  If you enjoy broccoli, cauliflower, zucchini, carrots or nearly any produce you buy at the grocery store - organic or otherwise - you enjoy genetically modified foods.  All of those foods have had their genes manipulated through natural mutations which someone identified as preferential.  For proof of this look at your dog, then look at your neighbour's dog.  Advances in technology have simply allowed us to accomplish this in the lab much quicker. 

In addition, GMO foods are regulated.  Heavily.  And they must demonstrate that they are safe to consume as well as safe to grow.  Organic produce, on the other hand, is not regulated.  To date, not one instance of human illness has been associated with GMO products despite being in production since the seventies.  The same can not be said for organic produce. 

But, most importantly, GMO crops are saving lives!  Both Norman Borlaug and Pamela Ronald have demonstrated that science can provide answers to many of the problems facing a growing population without resorting to the natural and organic practices of the Black Rat.

If there is one knock against science that I am willing to concede it would be in the area of chemical pesticides.  But, even in this concession I have my reservations.  As with antibiotic use in farm animals, I believe the true issue with chemical pesticides and chemical fertilizers has more to do with avarice and hubris than science.  Science can only help answer questions, it can not regulate human behavior.  Our desire to make as much money off as little investment as possible, and the arrogance of thinking we know better than anyone else combine to turn decent technologies into the environmental hazards many chemicals have become.  But, when used only when needed I believe these technologies can ensure safe, high yield, sustainable harvests for generations.  I also do not think that the organic movement is any less avaricious or hubristic.  This is human nature regardless of your calling in life.  I know from my own experience that asking a farmer if his products are organic, sustainable and local is no more of a guarantee than asking the 16 year old produce clerk at Loblaws. 

When we look at the most destructive technologies that have been introduced to society - lead in vehicles, CFC's in aerosols and refrigeration, DDT in pesticides - we see scientists at the forefront of exposing the damage those technologies have caused.  Science is an all encompassing discipline which includes the study of our environment.  It should not surprise anyone to see scientists working for activist organizations come from the same classrooms as those working for oil companies anymore than it would surprise them to find two Catholics at opposing sides.  So, for me, science must have an equal role in the production and distribution of a sustainable food supply as does the organic movement.  In my next post I will discuss how I think they can.

A Prince of a County!

Combine an inability to sleep with a beautiful, sunny Saturday morning and a new car and you have the recipe for a road trip.  The only question is: to where?  Indulging a love for wine and a desire to try more products from Prince Edward County I soon found myself heading east toward what might arguably be Ontario's trendiest wine region.  My objective was to taste and purchase some of the fine Burgundian style Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays at Norman Hardie Wines that I have read so much about and maybe try one or two other small wineries.  So, with a minimal game plan and no previous knowledge of the area, off I went.

I found Norman Hardie's winery easily enough, but was kind of taken aback by the rustic look of the place.  A minimalist rusted iron sign and a gravel driveway greet you and lead you to the combination winery/cellar/retail outlet with the world's coolest wood burning oven and patio restaurant.  No need to book a tour, just wander around the premises and make yourself at home.  It is really that small and cozy.  In hindsight I should not have been surprised at the lack of window dressing and pretentiousness, since Hardie's wines lack the same.  Besides the wines, the retail store carries a number of gourmet products such as oils, vinegars and bread and even a book or two.   The young woman who served me was cheerful, knowledgable and personable.  

I tasted 4 wines: two Pinot Noir, one Chardonnay and one Riesling.

Norman Hardie 2010 County Pinot Noir Unfiltered, Norman Hardie 2009 Pinot Noir Cuvée L Unfiltered, Norman Hardie 2010 Chardonnay Unfiltered, Norman Hardie 2011 Riesling

Perhaps the biggest characteristic of Norman Hardie wines is its old world style.  The Pinot and Chards are mineral-y with ripe fruits and judicial use of oak.  Compared to the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay of Beamsville, these wines are distinctly their own and yet everything you would love about cold weather wines.  The winemaker's love of French wine is apparent in his own style; rich, warm wines that offer depth and complexity without losing their approachability.  Regardless of wine colour, these are wines you will want to enjoy with friends over a big platter of food.  Good food.  The kind of food you can eat with your hands.  Try the Riesling with some medium spicy samosas, the Chardonnay with a grilled butter drenched lobster tail and the Pinot Noir with burgers or pizza from a wood burning oven.  Mmmmm, pizza.  

Not knowing much about Prince Edward County and its wineries, I asked the staff at Norman Hardie for a couple of recommendations.  One was their neighbour at Rosehall Run Winery.  Rosehall's retail is in a contemporary concrete, steel and glass building with a beautiful little tasting room and retail store front and centre.  Their staff also greeted me like they had been waiting for me all week.  Friendly, knowledgable and helpful seems to be the character trait most sought after by wineries.  Also available at this retail shop is a selection of artisanal products from local businesses equally passionate about what they make.  I highly recommend you bring a little extra cash for some amazing mustards and cured meats.

At Rosehall, I tasted two Chardonnay, two Pinot Noir and one Cabernet Franc.

Rosehall Run Estate Bottled Chardonnay 2010, Rosehall Run Unoaked Chardonnay 2010, Rosehall Run Pinot Noir Rosehall Vineyard 2009, Rosehall Run Pinot Noir Cuvée County 2009, Rosehall Run Cuvée County Cabernet Franc 2010.

The set up of this tasting was brilliant with each of the lighter of the Chard and Pinot preceding the bolder version.  All of them were amazing wines that anyone would feel proud to serve their friends and family.  Very fruit forward would best describe these wines and you can tell that the winemaker's hand has a light touch allowing the grapes' natural characteristics to shine through.  This is strongly apparent with one of the best Cabernet Franc I have tasted.  Rosehall Run was a great find and will be added to my list of favourite wineries along with Norman Hardie.

I am not sure if it is an Ontario trait, a trait of the wine industry or simply my own bias toward anyone who brings me food and drink, but, as with my visit to Beamsville Bench, I found the people of Prince Edward County to be friendly, welcoming and extremely proud of their home and the wine and food industry.  If there is one distinction it would be that Prince Edward County seems even more laid back and casual.  You are never hurried and even the traffic seems calmer.  I think, though, to do it best one would need to find a bed and breakfast to stay at and make a weekend of it to see all there is to experience.

Nobody enjoys old world wines more than I do, and no one appreciates the generations of experience that are represented in their products.  But, as Ontarians we are lucky to have some great wines and, even more important, great people making Ontario a culinary destination.  There is no reason for any of us to apologize for making the statement that "Ontario wine is as good as any in the world."  And we should not hesitate to visit the wine regions of our province and enjoy the people and wines of those regions.  So get out and enjoy Prince Edward County.  And, if you don't mind, could you pick up a loaf of bread at Norman Hardie's for me while you are there?

A Day At The Cardiologist

"Sit down Mr. Rutledge. Now, why are you here?"
" Um, because my doctor wanted your opinion on my ECG."

Don't these doctors read?

" I see. Could you get up on the table and take your shirt off, please." Listening to my chest and then: "You're a bit of a large one, aren't you?"

And so it begins.

"Yeah, I might be a few pounds over weight."
"Well, more than just a few."
"Yeah."
" Ok, you can get down and put your shirt on..."

 Here it comes.

"...ok Mr. Rutledge, having checked your test I would say that the thickening is probably normal due to your age and weight.  Have you given any thought to losing some of it?"

I wonder if this guy gets out of his office much.

"Yes.  I have considered it for most of the last 20 years or so."
"Well, maybe you should just start getting down to doing something about it."

God! I wish I'd thought of that!

"Well, doctor, it's not that I don't have the best intentions, but to be frank, I have probably lost the equivalent of your entire weight over those same 20 years only to keep putting it back on.  And, I am just sick of constantly thinking about every damn thing I put in my mouth, not to mention the hours wasted at the gym."
"Well, it does take a little bit of will power, but it can be done. If you cut out the white foods and limit your use of butter and sugar. I'm sure you think you are doing wonderful things by substituting olive oil for butter, but you really need to limit all your fats and ...blah, blah, blah..."

Is that a real diploma? Man, did I remember to pay MasterCard this month? I bet he paid more for his desk than I paid for my Smart Car.

"...for instance, if you just cut out the alcohol...let's do the math here...300 calories per...6-7...carry the one...yeah, there you go, the equivalent of about 15lbs ..."

Is this guy new?

"...and perhaps you could give some thought to walking a little each day?"

Really?

"Well, that's a great idea, doc.  How about, say...12 kilometres a day...and, I strap 30 pounds or so to my back just to build the intensity?"
"Well, don't get ahead of yourself, start with a 30 minute walk in the evening and..."
"Let me stop you there, doctor.  I'm a letter carrier, I am already doing the 12 K with the added weight. A stroll around the block won't even get me warmed up."
"Oh, I didn't realize..."
"Look, part of the issue is that my knee is arthritic and by the time I am home from work the last thing my legs want is more exercise, so I get comfortable on the couch and try not to eat."
"Well, you can't just make excuses.  You have to start losing some weight or one day your heart will just give up and that will be the end..."

Sounds perfect!

"...now look at me, I haven't had anything to eat since breakfast yesterday other than a cup of coffee this morning..."

Explains a lot.

"...and I'm not even hungry."
"Want to do that and try coming with me on my route in 35 celsius weather?"
"I know it's not practical for you to eat nothing, but maybe stay away from the starches and fats and try and get more vegetables and whole grains into you.  And you need to stop thinking about food all the time..."

What?!  Really?  That's possible?  Doctor, I do eat pretty nutritious food.  I eat a variety of foods, love veggies, fish, fruits.  I attempt to go meatless at least once a week.  I try very hard to limit my alcohol to just weekends and then to as little as possible.  But, no matter what I eat, I can tell you, I am probably going to eat more than I need to.  Please don't tell me that whole grains will make me feel fuller longer: they don't.  Nor does more protein; nor does more fat, dairy or any other suggested food type.  I am hungry immediately after eating.  I could eat you and on my way out of your office chow down on a small receptionist or two.  And, despite that constant hunger I do try to limit my consumption.  I think about food because I am constantly thinking about how much I just ate and how much more I should eat.

I think less about eating food, though, then I do about producing it, preparing it, serving it.  Food is not just something to fill my stomach; it is something that enhances moments together with friends.  Alcohol does the same, and loosens lips to open conversation and gives people the confidence to express opinions.  Food and drink do far more to bring family, friends and even communities closer together than maybe any other part of our culture.  Are rich foods and alcohol absolutely necessary?  Absolutely not!  But it sure makes this "life of quiet desperation" a little more bearable.

I am single and childless and my health affects no one other than me.  And, even if it didn't, so what?  Whether I am 50 or 150 when I die, I am sure there will be someone who will be a little sad to see me go.  But, loss is just as much a part of life as love, laughter and dancing.  Melancholy enhances merriment as much as food and drink; ever been to an Irish wake?

Look in your office, doctor, and see all those old (and I might add, skinny) men.  Watch them struggle to walk with their little walkers keeping them from falling over.  Listen to them talk about nothing but their health and illnesses and afflictions.  Look how their wives have to carry instructions and prescriptions in their purses for them everywhere they go so they remember their appointments and medications and, fuck, just to breath.  What do you think they think about?  They think about mortality and how soon it's going to come.  So, frankly, I would rather think about food and beer and wine and music and literature and life.  And, if you could arrange it, have the end come when I am least thinking about it.

"...so you will try and give a little thought to losing a few pounds?"
"Of course."
"And, I'll schedule you for a stress echo in a couple of weeks here at the office."

Of course.

Happy as a Clam

Speaking of bivalves, here is a story about a new old trend developing in the States that I would love to see migrate north.  I am not a fan of food trends, I feel if something is good it is always good, so I hope that some of these trends stick around.

As a bonus, here is a pretty good Wikipedia article all about bivalves.  Fascinating.

Is It Hot Enough for You Now?

Another story on the effects global warming will be having on the food industry.  And, while oysters may not seem like an important thing to worry about, keep in mind they play an important part in the ecology as well as the food chain.